|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Danny Inman on Jul 24, 2006|
|Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Straight Edge||Add Comment|
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From: La Mesa, CA
Aug 6, 2008
|It should be noted that the first rap on the descent described above is almost 100' long and one must trend a bit left to get to it. This is the way we went, too. I had intended to rappel MRC Direct but wasn't comfortable spanning the gap to get over to that anchor.|
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013
We did this on our first trip to The Voo.
Although the pitches below on the formation are great, if you're not a wide/fist-crack specialist, you might hate this pitch. Although the gear is good, without enormous hands/feet, you may struggle to gain decent purchase on the steep and sharp jams. At 6' with above-average hand size, it still seemed to me that the best jams were too deep in the crack for me to reach, and the feet rarely gave me enough of a break to get two good hands in.
Overall, I think this is one of those pitches where if you climb 5.10a+ wider crack well, you may like it, but others will probably not (and might consider rapping off instead of topping out with this pitch).
By justin hausmann
Jul 24, 2013
|Classic Voo fists. Good pitch and position. Can set belay and bring someone up with smaller gear #1, but a 4 would be useful for the top anchor if you plan on toproping. Don't get sucked into the deep hand jams except for maybe placing gear. Can rap all but last 10 feet with 70 meter rope.|