Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: FA: Marti Woerner (aka Sadhanna) 1971, FFA: Steve Grossman, John Steiger, 1982
Page Views: 1,696 total · 9/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Feb 18, 2009
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb the face right of Stonedmasters up past two bolts to a bulge. Once upon a time there was an old pin below the bulge. Squeezing the Lemmon no longer shows a pin on the topo.

Surmount the bulge and continue up.

Excellent and steep face climbing coupled with tricky nutting once made this a must do lead for admission to the Tucson hard man club.

While new fangled rubber and gear may have reduced some of the mystique of the lead, one would imagine the climb maintains some of its spicy nature.

From Steiger's guide:
"This imposing climb was initially freed using the rusted 1/4" bolts left from the 1st ascent.
With the advent of a replaced 3/8" bolt, an insecure voyage has become somewhat steadier.
An in obvious #2 hex placement in a hole provides bombproof protection for the crux bulge."

2nd pitch is your choice but finishing on Stonedmasters was considered the better form.

Location Suggest change

Right of Stonedmasters and left of Crows Nest and Ratline.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, TCUs and the infamous #2 hex sideways.

At the bulge, find the hole, push your trusty #2 into the pocket and turn it 90 degress. Voila, a bomber wire. With "modern day gear" this climb is probably even more accessible (i.e. remove the PG13 notation.)
I recall finding wires both above and below the bulge.

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