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Warning there is route beta in this post for all you onsighters out there.
This route is simply stunning! Josh Janes saw the line and showed it to Tom and three trips later we had put up a mega classic! The route starts up a dirty sandy corner for about 15' but don't worry the choss ends here. Once above the corner the true climbing begins with a interesting offwidth that is formed by two arete's pointing towards each other. There is a hidden #1 Camalot placement inside this offwidth near the bottom that you can see if you stick your head into the crack (you'll need a sling for sure on this piece). After that we placed two bolts to protect the rest of the wide section.
From the top of the wide crack (There is a great kneebar, no hands rest here by the way) the crack changes to thin fingers in an open right facing corner. Layback and jam up this corner with increasing difficulty as the corner gets smaller and so does the crack. Place a final high piece (.2 Camalot) from a tips stance and try to gather your strength for the crux.
The crux moves are strenuous and powerful but here's the beta. Walk your feet up high on the left face of the corner while liebacking hard off the tips crack. Make a big reach with your right hand to a good face hold and gaston off it. From the gaston move your feet up some more and make another big reach with your left hand back to the crack where it opens up again to fingers. A couple more moves will get you firmly in the crack with some feet. From here the climbing eases and the crack widens to hands and the anchor.
The second pitch is not as hard, probably clocking in at about 11- but it would be a shame to miss with classic position and exposure. From the anchor chimney up about a body length to a good hand crack. Hand traverse out right to an airy stance and follow a large ovehanging right facing corner up to a roof. Big hands and/or fists get you over the roof and into a perfect chimney with nothing but air below. Climb up about 10 to 15 feet of unprotected but easy chimney to a great belay stance on the right.
Two 70m ropes will get you to the ground from the top of the second pitch with a fully free hanging rappel. Make sure you rap off the right side from the second anchor and not through the chimney. Two 60m ropes are needed to get down from the first anchor.
This route is located to the right of Lobotomy. Just look up for a open right facing dihedral that leads to some large roofs that end at a open chimney. There is a plaque sitting below the route on top of a short pillar.
Note that all these sizes are for Camalots and this gear beta is from what I can remember but I errored on the side of more rather than less.
Pitch 1: (1).2, (3).3, (3).4, (3).5, (1).75, (2) 1, (2)2, (1)3.
Pitch 2: (2)2, (3)3, (1)3.5
You'll also want slings for the bottom of the first pitch and for under the roofs on the second pitch.
There are two bolts at each anchor. The anchor for the first pitch has chains and the second pitch has slings and a quick link.
BETA PHOTO: This picture shows the funky offwidth formed by tw...
BETA PHOTO: The crux is at the thinnest part of the corner whe...
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch goes through a roof and then up a...
Another Classic 12 added to the cliff.
Oct 20, 2010
the photos don't fully depict the 'holy shit' -ness of this route. utterly bad ass and intimidating looking. impressive display of optimism you guys!