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 ADVANCED
Coyote Rocks
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Sheepshagger Spire T 
Stout Wanker T 
Superpecker  T 
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Trickster, The T 
Yipping Coyote Tower T 

Stout Wanker 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 [details]
FA: Trevor and Eddie Bowman 6/15/04
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 9, 2009

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The route follows the crack splitting the face bet...

Description 

The "Siamese phallus" tower! A straightforward clean aid route up the obvious crack bisecting the spire’s west face. Has the best rock in the Coyote Rocks. The crack widens up top and can be free climbed to the ledge (single shut anchor here), where you can scamper carefully up hollow rock to the summit.


Location 

Obvious tower from where you parked. It's the rightmost tower in the overview photo.


Protection 

Single set of cams to 3" and stoppers, aiders, single cold shut anchor--needles-style rap or lower leader and counterweight-anchor for second.



Photos of Stout Wanker Slideshow Add Photo
Loaded for bear on the FA of Stout Wanker...one of my first aid leads.
Loaded for bear on the FA of Stout Wanker...one of...
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