Storming the Castle 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Topher Donahue |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Mike C. Robinson on Mar 9, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: The 4 bolts (and 2-bolt anchor) of Storming the Ca...
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Description The crux is 2/3 of the way up. It is a fun route.
Location This is on the face/arete right of Comeback Crack and left of Curving Crack. It is a new route, 1 year old.
Protection Bolts.
Storming the Castle.
| Josh demonstrating his master technique, toprope b...
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| Comments on Storming the Castle |
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By Jimn Seiler From: North Platte, NE Jun 25, 2007
| What is the bolted route directly to the right of Comeback Crack? It goes up maybe 4 or 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor to the best of my recollections |
By Ben Walburn Jul 13, 2007
| I was recently up at Castle Rock and saw this new bolt line. It is, in my opinion, put up in extremely poor taste. One can easily toprope this line. There are 3 bolts within 7 - 8 feet of each other and the climb is only 35ft. tall. The routes that didn't get bolted by the masses of developers over the past 3 decades were not chosen for good reasons. |
By Mike C. Robinson From: Rumney, NH Aug 22, 2007
| Access issues? what!? in Boulder Canyon? you gotta be kidding. It's Boulder Canyon, land of the bolted cracks!!! Yeah!!! Welcome to Boulder Canyon!!!! |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Dec 14, 2007
| Has Headline actually been redpointed yet? |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Mar 10, 2008
| The actual Headline is the route/project that branches left of Deadline and is probably 5.14. Maybe a renaming of whatever the 5.11 is would be in order? |
By RalphE From: Boulder, CO Aug 29, 2008
| I agree with the poster above that these bolts are placed in extremely poor taste. This is a squeeze line placed adjacent to ultra-classic clean lines pioneered in the early 1960s. These bolts are immediately left of Curving Crack and the route name does not match the write-up above. Will the person who placed these bolts please take it upon themselves to carefully remove these bolts without damaging the rock any more than they already have? That would show some integrity. |
By Todd Ritter From: Lafayette Aug 12, 2009
| While possibly "a sqeeze job" at first site, this route climbs extremely well. The bolts in no way impede on routes to the right or left. It looks to be about 5.8 but certainly feels like 11b once you're on it. I was glad to clip each bolt, especially the last one. A worthy addition; put in by a guy who has been a silent steward of Castle Rock for some time now. |
By Luke Childers Jan 31, 2010
| Did not get a chance to climb this line today but saw it for the 1st time and thought it looked great!! I can't wait to climb it and it looks like it has plenty of room to be a great line on its own. Looks like fun. Nice work!! |
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Mar 13, 2010 rating: 5.11
| Great route. My partner used the arete to move past the second bolt and then straight up past it second go round. Awesome sloper slapping up and super crimp pulling. Short but sweet. IMHO, NOT a squeeze job at all as you can't use either crack to protect this climb on lead in any way. If you want to argue that it should have been top roped only, fine, but how many people go out looking to TR stuff? I see no problem here. |
By kirkadirka From: Boulder May 26, 2011
| I agree, super fun line that definitely adds to Castle Rock. If it were only a toprope line, I never would have been interested in it. |
By Peter From: Boulder Sep 13, 2011
| It is NOT a squeeze job or whatever. It is a pretty good route, pretty well bolted. Does not need any more or any less bolts. Definitely a good addition to Castle Rock. "One can easily toprope this line".... I am sorry, but this is dumb. One can easily toprope Gill Crack, but many people actually lead it or boulder. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2011 rating: 5.11
| To the above, the obvious retort is "maybe so, but nobody bolted Gill Crack." For my own part, I can see this one going either way. The lead is different that a TR because you have to get stances to clip on lead, whereas you can just slap away on TR. However, I can see it feeling a bit close to Curving Crack too. Too bad it's not a few feet further away such that it would be evaluated more on it's own merit, as the climbing is actually pretty novel and interesting. But where it is is where it is and the historical precedent of the climbs surrounding it leave it in a compromised position. The climbing is all tension and slopers. Mid-5.11 sounds about right. I don't think 11a nor 11d. |
By Tombo From: Boulder, Colorado Mar 27, 2012
| Great sport route requires thought and precision. Not over bolted or squeezed like may Boulder Canyon sport routes. I look forward to losing weight and trying to lead. |
By Luke Childers Sep 6, 2012
| Tried it today fanlly on TR! And got worked! Lol. Great line. Wild blunt arête and face climbing. |
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