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 ADVANCED
Science Friction & Windward Walls
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1993: A face Odyssey T,S 
Blender Head T 
Good Clean Fun S 
Little Bits T,TR 
Pub Draught Guinness T 
Scar Trek T 
Short Timing T,TR 
Storm Warning T 
Windward Passage, The T 

Storm Warning 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mick and Kari Schein
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: LeeAB on Aug 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

P1-Climb more or less straight up to towards the bottom of the large arching corner passing a small right facing corner and belaying in a sort of scoop.
P2-Climb the crack up to the roof, turn the roof using a face hold up and right protect with small gear, blue alien and a stopper. The crux of this route is not particularly physical but demands attention, make sure to spend time finding the foot holds and stay calm, staying in one place is easy, moving up onto the next footholds is the hard part, about 10 feet of very delicate climbing where the corner arches right over your head. Continue up the corner with a combination of face, layback and stemming moves with small gear in the corner and horizontals.

Location 

On the Windward/lower of the two walls, climbing up to then following the obvious right facing arching corner high on the wall.
Descent-Rap with a single 70m rope going down Good Clean Fun, or continue up one of the routes on the upper wall.

Protection 

Standard rack for P1 and doubles of small stuff up to about #.5 camalot, nuts and draws for P2, no need for the big stuff on the second pitch. Fixed anchor at the top of the route, build your own in the middle


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 14, 2008

The second pitch of this route is great. The second pitch can be climbed with an extreamly light rack though I did use 2 blue aliens.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Aug 18, 2008

A classic second pitch as Lee states. Very exciting for the leader even though any falls should be clean (and potentially long). The second pitch is easily top-roped for a preview of gear options before the lead.