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Shortoff Mountain
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Stopperhead Arete 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Nathan Brown, Doug Swords, Zachary Lesch-Huie
Page Views: 802
Submitted By: nbrown on Apr 25, 2011
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  • Description 

    This is an excellent line up the arete to the right of Supercrack. The first 2 pitches are the best, with the last bit being the typical easier Shortoff style topout. This route was originally done with a "stopperhead" for "pro", and linked into the end of P-1 of Supercrack via a traverse. It was recently taken to the top, resulting in yet another excellent full length Shortoff route.

    P-1 Boulder up past some hidden cams (from below) to the bolt. One can get a good rest here if they are flexible enough... Continue up the arete and face past lots of good horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor at about 90'. Note: The original route followed a left diagonaling seam up to the Supercrack anchors. This pitch packs a pump!

    P-2 It is easy enough to belay from the big chockstone ledge to the right for slightly more comfort. Anyway, climb the crack feature in the wall above (inside gully) to a short hanging corner. Pull around that and move up and left to the arete and climb to the big ledge for a gear belay.

    P-3 Climb any number of variations to the top, either as one pitch or 2 broken up.


    Location 

    Just right of Supercrack


    Protection 

    Standard Shortoff rack



    Photos of Stopperhead Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Brian on the excellent jug fest.
    Brian on the excellent jug fest.
    Skip this beta if you don't want to spoil the pump.
    Skip this beta if you don't want to spoil the pump...
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