Stopperhead Arete 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Nathan Brown, Doug Swords, Zachary Lesch-Huie |
| Submitted By: | nbrown on Apr 25, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: topo
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Description This is an excellent line up the arete to the right of Supercrack. The first 2 pitches are the best, with the last bit being the typical easier Shortoff style topout. This route was originally done with a "stopperhead" for "pro", and linked into the end of P-1 of Supercrack via a traverse. It was recently taken to the top, resulting in yet another excellent full length Shortoff route. P-1 Boulder up past some hidden cams (from below) to the bolt. One can get a good rest here if they are flexible enough... Continue up the arete and face past lots of good horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor at about 90'. Note: The original route followed a left diagonaling seam up to the Supercrack anchors. This pitch packs a pump! P-2 It is easy enough to belay from the big chockstone ledge to the right for slightly more comfort. Anyway, climb the crack feature in the wall above (inside gully) to a short hanging corner. Pull around that and move up and left to the arete and climb to the big ledge for a gear belay. P-3 Climb any number of variations to the top, either as one pitch or 2 broken up.
Location Just right of Supercrack
Protection Standard Shortoff rack
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