Stop The Madness
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Start just left of Little Stiffy
. Climb huecos with side-pulls and underclings to a big iron cross and a crux high step to the anchor. Sustained and powerful.
Bolts to cold-shut anchor
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 12, 2012
We set this route up on TR from the anchor of Little Stiffy. I know, I know... Should lead anything you want to climb, but if you're interested in the grade, not a bad way to go. I really have no idea how the crux portion of this route is supposed to go. There was chalk way out to the left, which I think is off route and defeats the .12 crux section challenge. I would be really interested to see someone send it. Very well protected, in any case. Seemed like a long boulder problem. Very intricate and fun! On TR, getting to the first and second bolts wasn't an issue. Will have to go on the "to do" list.
By John Ericson
Mar 30, 2015
Going left follows the natural weekness and the holds are within a single arm's reach of the bolts. It felt 11d/12a going this way.