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Stop Making Sense
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | John Steiger, Ray Ringle, 1986 |
Page Views: | 847 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
EFR's 2000 guide (Squeezing II) says of this route: "Forget good sense if you try leading this super hard slab with a long 5.10+ runout at the end." I don't remember much about the FA, but I thought I'd post this up to try to stimulate someone to climb it, so they can tell me what I've forgotten. I do recall numerous tries (always lowering to a rest, of course; these were the ground-up, no dogging years)-- with classic time-release footholds and making do with barely visible rugosities. EFR rates this as 5.12 R, but I'm pretty sure we called it 5.12a, and we didn't think of it as particularly unsafe, but I'll give it 12b here just to stroke my aging ego. Free Wasatch Devastators (a really good double bock) to anyone who has led it and meets me in SLC (offer expires 2017). Oh ya, the description: Climb the bolt line up the middle of the slab left of the Shanashee and Shanadoo start.
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