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 ADVANCED
Neptune
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange (with direct start) T 
Arc Of A Diver T 
Clip Tide S 
Cream of Belay T 
Endless Edge T 
Finding Guinness T 
Finding Nemo T 
Free Fall T 
Jaws T 
Jimmy Dean T 
Land Shark T 
Layback 'n Cruz T 
Ma'adim T 
Muscle Shoals S 
Naranja T 
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 
Prime Rib of RURP T 
Rapture of the Steep T 
Reef Stricken S 
Salty Dogs T 
Scimitar T 
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 
Shanadoo T 
Shanashee T 
Stop Making Sense  T 
Swept Away T 
Tide Me Over T 
Unfathomable T 
Visceral Pull T 
Warm and Free T 
Where Eaglets Dare T 

Stop Making Sense  

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle, 1986
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

EFRís 2000 guide (Squeezing II) says of this route: ďForget good sense if you try leading this super hard slab with a long 5.10+ runout at the end.Ē I donít remember much about the FA, but I thought Iíd post this up to try to stimulate someone to climb it, so they can tell me what Iíve forgotten. I do recall numerous tries (always lowering to a rest, of course; these were the ground-up, no dogging years) with classic time-release footholds and making do with barely visible rugosities. EFR rates this as 5.12 R, but Iím pretty sure we called it 5.12a, and we didnít think of it as particularly unsafe, but Iíll give it 12b here just to stroke my aging ego. Free Wasatch Devastators (a really good double bock) to anyone who has led it and meets me in SLC (offer expires 2015). Oh ya, the description: Climb the bolt line up the middle of the slab left of the Shanashee and Shanadoo start.

Location 

Find the base of Shanashee on the lower west face of Neptune. Walk left out the 3rd class ledge system (which also accesses the original first pitch of Warm and Free).

Protection 

Draws and some sort of rack (I donít remember). Gear belay.


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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 17, 2011

Hey John, Dave Merin replaced most of the hardware on this one a few months ago. I think one of the old bolts still needs to be removed; I will clean that up the next time I am at the Reef.