This route begins about 30' up and to the left of the large cleft in the center of the formation. It's to the left of "Desperado". Climb a groove and cracks to the left end of the summit roof. Step left then to the summit. The crack to the right and a bit below the summit is a variation climbed by me as second--on the rope-- on this route (5.10b).
Sep 8, 2006
I did the top variation and agree, 5.10b.
|By Russ Walling|
Jan 19, 2014
Start on a pillar and ascend the weird-ish scoop with hollow yet adequate pro. Continue up various cracks and features to the top. Anchor with whatever you have left over as it takes all sizes, but mostly small to med.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 19, 2014
Gear adequate yes but somewhat limited on the first 1/3 of the route. If you're looking for easy to identify and bomber gear on your 5.8... you may want to look elsewhere. Fun enough climbing and eases towards the top. Lots of anchor options with clearance using the upper block to TR with limited friction on the rope which is nice. Two bolt anchor a few routes over climber's right if you're doing others in the area and can leave draws (bolts & hangers only, no rings/chains). In the end, some sucker needs to walk off climber's right. 1.75 stars out of 5