Stoney Point 

Some of the climbs have cruxes which involve the very last move, so remember to finish the top rope routes and not just touch the 'biner and lower off - end of finger wagging.

Guidebooks:
Urban Rock - by Chris Owen (2004)
Southern California Bouldering - Craig Fry (1995)

Apparently it's turned into quite the spot for drug addicts. Goofed off there a few days while I was consulting at Meggit Safety Systems. Saw multiple people every day huddled in the cracks on the top, obviously hiding what they had and looking disheveled. Bummer too as the park's got some fun bouldering and views.

Jonny, and I climbed at Stoney a couple of weeks ago.
Here's my take on it;

The grafitti sucked, and climbing on the lacquered spray paint on one route we did was slippery in a few spots but the rock was friendly on the hands, and the climbing was fun. The atmosphere wasn't too bad; I chatted with a couple of potential 5150s that were disheveled, yet sporting new climbing shoes meandering at the base of the routes. The homeless guys were staying low key, and had their items neatly stashed so it wasn't too much of an eye sore. There were a couple of guys that looked like they were maybe Rabbis with long beards scrambling in their religious clothing, and tennis shoes. The demeanor of the drug addicts; mellow, non-aggressive, non-confrontational. If you said "Boo!" they'd probably run home to mommy. Although I did see gang-like graffiti, I didn't see any gang activity while we were there anyway; no signs of MS-13. The only thing that frightened me was being forced to walk through a blockade of born again Christians on the trail, as they were filming an amateur religious video. They exhibited a paranoid wide-eyed look when I said, "Hey, what's up?" I guess I could be pretty scary too. Anyway, I enjoyed imagining the old school climbers back in the day cutting their teeth at these crags in a much more peaceful, beautiful, remote Stoney Point. The freeway noise was an annoyance but being from LA, it was to be expected. I loved watching, and hearing the trains go by while belaying, and climbing.

It's all good.

Stoney Point is a must visit place, and Chris Owens book was awesome.

Try it, you might like it.

Thank you Gigette. I'm trying to remember what my first impressions of Stoney Point were when I first arrived there in 1984; not positive I expect but I've grown to love the place.

Heck, I met all of my best friends there!

working on creating a collection of video beta for a number of SoCal bouldering areas. here's what I have for Stoney Point. check back often...

www.vimeo.com/album/5836

I just came across this: www.flashed.com/podguides/index.html

Is there any ipod downloadables for Stoney Point? That would be cool. Thanks in advance for any replies.

On June 6, 2009, Saturday, I parked my car along Topanga Canyon Road shortly after 12 p.m. When I returned around 4 p.m., the driver side window was smashed. The burglar took items from the glove compartment and the console. The traffic was heavy along Topanga Canyon Road, and many cars parked on the east side. When I reported the incident to LAPD, they appear indifferent.

Patton sorry to hear about your break in, not an unusual occurrence I'm sorry to say. I park by the Stoney Point sign, the idea being that people at Boulder 1 would see stuff happening up on the street. There seems to be more broken glass up by the traffic light.

As previously mentioned under "Other Resources" above.

Good times, very fun and easy to navigate/find routes. Don't let the talk about graffiti and bums make you think this place is anything less than classic.

Excellent bouldering for all levels of climbers. Some of it can be quite high so bring your courage.

Sport Chalet had an old copy of urban rock for $10 and it's way better than the new one! Doesn't mak any sense why he put out a new version that has less in it and worse drawings.

By "he" I assume you mean me Tristan.

1) There are more routes in the 3rd edition - by about 100 I think.
2) The drawings are the same, besides the map, there's a new one and it just got published in Climbing magazine.

Still if you like the 2nd Edition - thanks and have fun with it.

hey all, i've got a blog going that might be interesting to stoney climbers, its got photos as well as some of my observations, opinions, the usual blog fodder. check it out at verticali-culture.blogspot.com. thanks and pray for no rain this weekend- Xan

My buddy Callum and I shot a bunch of climbs on our Flip and iPhone this winter. Thought you guys might get a laugh or two out of it. It's not the quality filmmaking Cole's documentary will surely be. Facebook cause of music rights.

www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=623320354111&comments]]ww>>>

Nice Rob, great job Callum on Fighting with Alligators!

I've posted a link above under "Videos".

Does anyone know the [his]story about toilets at Stoney? I am not a super-frequent climber out there but every time I do head out it strikes me that the high traffic of climbers, hikers, families picnicing on the weekends and the odd resident bum must add up to a prolific amount of human waste. Considering how many people enjoy Stoney, its beauty and historical importance it's baffling that there's nowhere to errr, go. I realize it's officially a city issue but is this something other climbers have tried to do something about [in vain] already?

Junio, not for many decades to my knowledge - I brought it up at a council meeting back in 1994. I would certainly be worth considering, one issue that would need to be addressed (besides expense) would be the vandalism issue, how to prevent the bathrooms from being trashed and destroyed, or even burned to the ground.

It may be possible to find sponsorship through private sources. As mentioned previously policing is a concern, we did manage to get no parking after dark signs which have impacted the graffiti and trash, I think significantly.

As a city park Stoney Point is a work in process.

the toilet thing gets to me also. we need to come up with our constructed toilet. the city don't help out too much.

Purplepineapple: I don't toprope too often, so I'm not familiar with the boy scout wall area, but it's my opinion that the bees should be kept wherever the boyscouts are climbing.

Maybe you should post under your real name if you are going to be proposing a big change like this. And only a few of the old timers actually belong to this site. Go to Boulder 1 on Tuesday and Thursday nights and ask everyone with grey hair what they think. I for one am not for glueing holds. I'm also not for messing with the bees. If you want to kill rattlesnakes, I'm okay with that.

I'm with Rob on this and also have gray hair (I'm not implying that Rob has gray hair).

I can't see that moderate routes need to have holds glued, they've seen plenty of activity and erosion over the years and are in pretty good shape. Let's just let natural events make their mark and not try to manufacture routes - I think it's a bad precedence to set for routes on natural stone, at any grade.

I'm only aware of one beehive close to a moderate area (but I could be wrong), I've been stung by bees from that one. But really my attitude is not to mess with mother nature. The bees tend to stay in the same places over the years and if we move them from their established areas to new "out of the way" place that'll just allow more bees to move in to the newly vacated old areas.

Add quality bolt anchors - absolutely. Pink Drips in particular needs anchors, my only caveat is that they're set according to standard soft rock practices - Caltech Alpine Club has donated $50 for Pink Drips anchor replacement and I need to get off my butt and get something going - now that Spring is here it seems like a good time.

seriously i have mad questions on the harder lines at stoney does anyone know anybody or can give me the scoop themselves? please message me!

Sitting here watching climbing vids tonight I began to miss Stoney Point and decided to look over what routes were on here and add my tick marks from a 2011 trip where I fell in love with the place. I absolutely cannot wait to be in LA again just to go to Stoney Point. One visit gave it a special place in my heart and little did I know that it was so rich in climbing history too. Great contributions Chris. I hope to be out there again soon. If you're a climber/boulderer in South Cali this is a must hit destination.

Found a climbing rope earlier this morning on the bench next to boulder one neatly coiled up. Ping me if you think it's yours; for authentication purposes I would ask for some details, i.e. color and other distinguishing features

A little video from Stoney for those interested!

Nice Greg - why not post the route at Pile Ups?