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 ADVANCED
MBA Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrenalyzer T 
Bad Manners T 
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete S,TR 
Brain Dead Ted TR 
Broken Arrow S,TR 
Cliff Hanger S 
Dan's Line aka Restless Heart S 
Dan's Manners S 
Fatal Attraction T 
Feeding Frenzy S 
Good Man Dan S 
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack T 
Left Behind T 
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) S 
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar T 
Milk Dud, The T 
Mini Me S 
Minor Trad Achievement T 
Mournful Mullet T 
Nader T 
No Manners aka Hodat T 
Oblivious T,TR 
Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line S 
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) T,TR 
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters T 
Sick Minds Think Alike T 
Spike S 
Stoney Middleton T 
Table Manners S 
Twenty Something Arete T 
Wazup? aka Buchanan T 

Stoney Middleton 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Jul 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Fun stemming.
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Description 

This is the right facing dihedral immediately right of Brain Cloud and Shadow of a Hangdog. Overall, this is one of the cleanest and most contiguous moderate cracks I have found at Table. The pro is plentiful and there are fun jams.

Walk off - go right or left to the nearest gully.


Protection 

Standard rack up to #2 Camalot. This route does not have a bolted belay; but you can use the Shadow of a Hangdog's or Broken Arrow belay bolts (climber's left) with a couple of long slings, or there are some nice cracks at the top to set your own belay.



Comments on Stoney Middleton Add Comment
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By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 10, 2008

A fun variation that improves the quality is to climb the first half of "Unknown right of Fat Fingers" to under the bulge. Just before the bolts begin, move right into the corner. This adds a thin 5.9 lieback section (passing a currently fixed #0 TCU) and avoids the lower angle beginning. A good climb, but I think Big Dihedral is better.

Also, its easy to climb back left at the top and use the "Unknown right of Fat Fingers" rappel anchor instead of walking off.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Oct 31, 2009

By Table Mtn. standards, this is a great crack climb!