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Chimney Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
8th and Main T 
Amanecer S 
Another Roadside Attraction T 
Boardwalk T 
Centerpiece T 
Coherent Excitation T 
Copperhead 5 T 
Crows Nest T 
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 
George's Buttress T,TR 
Georges Peach T,S 
Jungle Gym T 
Mistaken Identity T 
New Year's Eve T 
Perfect Peter T 
Shriveled Penis T 
Single Lens Reflex T 
Standard Route T 
Stonedmasters T 
Stoner's Boner T 
Straight Arrow T 
Stripper T 
Tomorrow is Today S 
Unstrung Harp T 
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 
Veranda T 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Fig, John Steiger,'77
Page Views: 470
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 9, 2009

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Big air at the top and heady climbing down low make it a fun experience. You don't want to fall as an injury is probable. Falling down low could be real bad. The initial arete is exciting but if you pull around to the left it isn't too hard and you can get some funky gear to protect moderate moves to the good pro. The start of the second pitch has good pro but if you don't have some bigger stuff you will be unhappy if you fall.


Starts same as 8th and Main then steps right to arete. Follow weakness right to slot then back left to easy ground eventually belaying under big left angling roof flake. 2) Climb out left then finish back right. Can be done in one pitch with long runners and sparsely placed gear. Walk off to the right then back along the base.


Standard rack with maybe two Blue camalots. Save one Blue for the top if you do it in one pitch as we did.

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By Paul Davidson
Mar 9, 2009

I gotta tell you amigo, my jaw hit the floor when I saw you posting this one up.

Sport climber turned serious trad leader !
I love it !

(I hear all the gymsters snickering about 5.9... har har har)
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 9, 2009

Back to my roots brother, back to my roots!

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