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Unsorted Routes:

Stoned Oven 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 13 pitches, 1800', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jimmy Dunn
Page Views: 11,605
Submitted By: Andrew Wellman on Sep 22, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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The womb fight may be one of the most memorable pi...

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Description 

I looked on this route for beta and didn't find any so figured it needed to be contributed. I have heard this route described as "Astroman's ugly cousin," "harder than Astroman," and "absolutely classic." I have no problem ignoring difficult route-finding, loose rock, lichen, munge, prickly cacti, and bird shit to call this route a total classic. It rules! For its position, sustained nature, and high volume of quality pitches, not to mention its size, this route lives up to classic status. However, I don't think it's as hard as Astroman, and don't come expecting it's flawless cracks.

Consult the Williams topo and use this info as a supplement. Belays as marked on the topo are not always obvious on the route (e.g. no fixed slings or gear). Likewise, the topo pitch lengths are not proportionate and thus may lead to some confusion. My suggested pitch lengths are approximate and as close as I can remember.

P1. Wide through a roof into a large r-facing corner(150ft.) Link this into 2 with a 70m cord.

P2. Short .10- continuing up the corner.

P3. Long 5.7 choss gully around the corner to the right.

P4. From the ledge at the top of the gully climb up face holds and into the right most and hopefully cleanest corner above you. this is where the topo gets confusing as it shows climbing in an actual corner. If in doubt just climb up, always being aware of the corners you're aiming for in about 3-4 pitches. I think trying to find the rock with the least lichen is handy as well. I never noticed bolts like the topo suggests. End at really old tat on a small stance/ledge(100ft?)

P5. Head straight up the corner above 11b and place small aliens and RPs for gear as you traverse thin corners and ramps to the left. This bit is clean and fairly obvious. I linked this with 4 and belayed on top of the marked pillar on the topo, a very comfortable stop. Stay right in the corner above, don't wander too far out right like we did.(160ft?)

P6. Climb up to a bulge, marked, and lieback and kneebar up it, then follow the bushy cracks above till the bolt can be spotted on the traverse out right(100ft?) This can be linked easily with the next traverse.

P7. The route is clean and obvious from here on out. Do a slabby/face traverse out right with a fixed nut and a crafty alien or two for pro and climb up the thin crack to the bottom of the flare(60ft)

P8. This is not really an offwidth, more of just a flaring corner where straight up jamming and chimneying are used. The majority of it has a perfect hand crack in the back. The crux is at the top with interesting stemming moves to reach a bolt and belay out left on the arete. Don't be afraid of this pitch, in the valley it would be 5.9, and its well protected with smaller gear.(100ft)

P9. Best pitch of the climb, the enduro corner. Easier than it looks from below, but packs a large pump. Great liebacking through 4, then 3.5 to 3 Camalots lead to a stem rest half way up. Great liebacking or handjamming continue on and when the crack really begins to arch it gets much easier, finally ending in green Camalot size.(120ft)5.11c

P10. Technical crux I suppose. Boulder problem with a bolt right off the belay leads to a long leftward traverse to a huge ledge.(5.11c, 40ft)

P11. Off the upper tier of the ledge head up a pegmatite groove. The climbing is fun and challenging, and doesn't offer a ton of pro. The topo indicates a chimney of sorts and this is wrong. Its more of a groove that you face climb. Also, the bolt and belay are not really located on top of any sort of pillar. Where the topo says no! should be a huge 5 inch offwidth that doesn't look appealing to climb, but due to confusion I tried anyway. Don't do this, just belay at the bolt.(120ft)

P12. The topo doesn't bother rating the face traverse that begins this pitch, but it is at least 5.11 slab/face and you would fall onto the shitty belay bolt. Based on the tat on the bolt, I think many people penji here and this may not be a bad idea. Continue up the cracks above which are really good.(160ft)

P13. The womb fight. Unrateable, horizontal offwidthing. Like Thank God Ledge's evil twin. No fun at all.(100ft)

P14. Easy to the top (40ft)

Protection 

RP's, Stoppers, Double set of Aliens blue thru red, Double set of Camalots .75-3, one 3.5, one 4, runners and draws of course. Recommended 70m rope for longer pitches but 60m will work. Webbing to rap off of if you anticipate bailing(not recommended)


Photos of Stoned Oven Slideshow Add Photo
A better Stoned Oven topo.
BETA PHOTO: A better Stoned Oven topo.
Stoned Oven photo beta with a 70mm rope.
BETA PHOTO: Stoned Oven photo beta with a 70mm rope.
Climbers on Stoned Oven, top of P5, September 27, 2007.
Climbers on Stoned Oven, top of P5, September 27, ...
Angry starting the "enduro" corner. There's the obvious wide section above...
Angry starting the "enduro" corner. There's the ob...
P6's slabby moves off the belay. <br />
P6's slabby moves off the belay.
Moving along nicely on P5.
Moving along nicely on P5.
Malmgren not liking the spinner bolt on P9.
Malmgren not liking the spinner bolt on P9.
Entering in P4's short, 5.11 dihedral.
Entering in P4's short, 5.11 dihedral.
Lying it back on the enduro corner of p8.
Lying it back on the enduro corner of p8.
Stoned Oven from the river.
BETA PHOTO: Stoned Oven from the river.
Malmgren testing his route finding skills on P3.
Malmgren testing his route finding skills on P3.
The classic arch of Stoned Oven (note climbers lower left).
The classic arch of Stoned Oven (note climbers low...
P6's killer flake.
P6's killer flake.
One pitch to reach the back to back crux pitches.
One pitch to reach the back to back crux pitches.

Comments on Stoned Oven Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 24, 2013
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 8, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The dish with the bolt is Dunn's original line. The face is scary 11+ and it leads to a dirty and bushy 5.10 offwidth. I followed Alan the Brit on it in gathering darkness and used several points of aid. We didn't realize the Womb Fight was just over to our right. Having had the pleasure of thrutching through the Womb Fight since then, I'm not sure which finish I'd recommend.

Otherwise though, The Stoned Oven kicks ass!!
By Rob Dillon
Jan 30, 2005

A much nicer belay at 11 may be had by doing the hard slab/penjy move and belaying from the stance between the choice of cracks on p.12. This provides a much better stance and anchors than belaying off the shitty old bolt and cramped stance in the guidebook.Full disclosure: I cannot claim to have climbed the S.O.; we arrived here via the Moveable Feast.
By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 17, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

To add to theREALangry's comments:

Loose rocks: they are everywhere...it is the Black. End of P3: there are HUGE blocks right of the nut+sling anchor that are not supported on much. If possible, climb directly under the anchor. End of P11: depending on how you arrive at the ledge, there are large blocks that flexes. The only saving grace is that, at either location, you are unlikely to kill your belayer if you pull them loose.

P5: Belay right above, below or higher above the 11b roof problem, whatever. I ran out of gear right above it.

P7: if you don't have little shoulders (or climbs 5.12 OW), taking off your camelbak could be useful.

P8: We accidentally stopped short. But in doing so, it actually set up the next pitch to give the leader a better fall line. Hanging belay sucks (what do I know, hehe), but anchoring right under the bouldering problem wouldn't have been that restful either.

P9: Here's the extra motivation to just do the bouldering problem: do you really want to find out whether that bolt's gonna hold a fall?

A personal experience that may have little relevance: after gaining the platform at the end of P9, if you have no interest of bivying for the night, don't relax too much! I had the worst crash as I was about to follow P10. A clif bar, sips of water, plus some yelling brought my body from comatose to lead P11 and finish the route, but I was in despair for a moment.
By Patrick Peddy
From: evergreen,co
Aug 21, 2007

Posted for realangry: it may be that you were off route on pitches 4 thru 6. 10 years ago my partner and I got lost in this same area and wound up penjying and scarily aiding a few crack systems right of what I know now as actual line. This ended under a rightward traversing roof/detatched block where we bailed leaving 2 Friends (red and purple HB quadcams, I believe). 2 or 3 rappels left to the base and rockfall partially severs both lines which made our already exciting retreat even better. Curious if those Friends you found were the ones we left (not that I want them if you took them). Pat Peddy.
By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 30, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

splattipus:
So you were the one that sent us off route (and made me repeatedly fall & take), huh? The cams were left there, as they'd serve as scary but passable rap anchor. I noticed as I went through the right-curving flake and traversing back to almost directly above the cam anchor that there was a more direct looking (and easier) line starting just left of the cam anchor. It had a slight right curve, which would be consistent with the topo. Since nowhere else on the route had what felt like a sandbagged section, I assume we were off route.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Sep 17, 2007

I was Pat's partner 10 years ago. What I remember most vividly is pushing off a 4 ft block with my pinky. That and climbing 10+ above a 2 micro cam belay with no other gear. Then into a crack that literally turned to dirt. But I get carried away by memories.

By the way, there are a few nuts left in the base of that crack for anyone with interest.

We got the right line this spring. Bring a few 4 inch cams. Steve
By Josh Janes
Sep 17, 2007

It seems like a lot of people are getting lost somewhere around pitch 3-6. Could anyone who has done this route correctly post some definitive info about how to avoid getting off route?

Cheers,
Josh
By Josh Smith
Sep 21, 2007

In response to Josh Janes' comment, I believe we were on route for P3-5, and this description and the beta photo I just posted might help. The photo and comments need to be viewed together.

We did the route with a 70m cord. I thought it worked fine. I’m only putting in detail for 3-5, since they seem to cause the most consternation and the other descriptions on MP are pretty comprehensive for the rest of the route.

  • P1 - 10+. Start not shown. Run two pitches together. Reach 2ft right at the roof for a good hold.

  • P2 - 5.7. Go around the corner to the right. Belay at a very large ledge.

  • P3 - 5.10. The tricky stuff. You could pick from about three lines. It looks like going straight up off the belay would be doable but tough (dirty). It would lead to the same belay unless you kept going hard left. We went right on the ledge about 15 feet. You’re walking at this point, and the ledge is maybe ten feet wide. You can actually step back and look up at the wall. There’s a blank face that keeps you from going too far right provided you’re shooting for the crux pitches, which you can see. We went up a sort of shallow arete on the left side of the face as described by others; reasonable pro. About 100ft up is fixed tat (nut, hex, I think). Good moderate climbing. After the tat, we kept going straight up, looked left for the large corner, did a easy traverse (some pro) hit the end of the 70 on a nice ledge below the short (20ft) steep corner. These features show up in the photo.

  • P4 - 5.11. Short (20’) section of overhanging fingers/stemming. 5.11 for a few feet, very powerful, easier above to a good stance.

  • P5 - 5.11. Head up a shallow corner for the “ear.” I handjammed around the right, my partner laybacked straight over. 5.11 for ten feet. Above, clip a fixed hex, look right for a bolt. Don’t clip the bolt, traverse low right. Traverse is 5.10 if you’re 5’10.” Probably harder if you’re shorter. Belay below the obvious crux pitches.

The rest of the route is pretty well covered in the other comments.

Larger gear: we took a old #3 Camalot, a new #4 and a new #5. This is, in my opinion, the minimum for a 5.11 leader on the enduro (though if your balls are large enough to wedge in the 4” crack and tie off, you could probably skip the large gear). Doubles of the #3 and #4 would have been sweet, though it sucks carrying them. The (new style) #5 was useful in a lot of places on the route. I wouldn’t take an old style #5 Camalot (#4 would work). The Womb Fight is no more difficult than crawling to the bathroom after eight hours of hard partying.

Quality; as good as Astrodog and maybe a little harder. We loved it. Climbers; Josh Smith and Aaron Miller, New Mexico. 9/15/07.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Sep 24, 2007

I will add a bit for route finding on the Stoned Oven. At the top of the long easy section-about 300 Ft up, there is a large ledge. There are many possible lines off the ledge. The correct line goes straight up at the highest part of the ledge-this is on the left side. After going straight up about 20 Ft, head about 5 Ft left into an indistinct corner. The first 30 Ft has marginal gear. Follow this to a ledge on the left. This is the belay for pitch 4. Above pitch 4 one is best off going through the small roof straight over head. This leads into the shallow dihedral that tends further left. Steve
By sean connors
Sep 25, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Climbed this route last spring. We seemed to have gotten off-route once or twice in the same area everyone else seems to wander around in. I also clipped the "do not clip" bolt and ended up climbing straight above it to the belay (runout and thin. 11- slab?). Thanks to all who posted a better description, as the guidebook is not that great.
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Oct 20, 2008

I thought the crux boulder problem after the enduro was the shit! way up there pulling an .11c move, not that hard. You can hang on the bolt, which is pretty good actually, and figure out the holds, then lower back down the 10 feet and send it!
By aaron voreis
Feb 21, 2009

Um.... Harder than Astrodog for sure. Especially considering the complex route finding.

This route is really, really good.
By eric whewell
From: Boulder, CO
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Certainly a double set of cams if not triples in the mid-sizes for the enduro corner pitch. It's long, sustained and eats gear. It's hard (and wide) off the belay then necks down then widens again before launching into the hands and thinner section. Long day, complex routefinding, and difficult climbing comprise Stoned Oven.
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Oct 8, 2009

I don't really see how anyone can get off-route, it is pretty straightforward of a route for the Black!?
By stephen arsenault
Sep 24, 2013

I had a long talk with Jimmy Dunn last night, and he told me many details about the 1st ascent.
They called it "Stoned Oven" because it was so hot, even the carabiners were burning their hands!

Jimmy blasted off, leading the last pitch in a great hurry, since they were so dehydrated. Years later Jimmy repeated the route with Dean Potter, and Dean thought that last pitch was damned hard.