Stoned Oven 

The dish with the bolt is Dunn's original line. The face is scary 11+ and it leads to a dirty and bushy 5.10 offwidth. I followed Alan the Brit on it in gathering darkness and used several points of aid. We didn't realize the Womb Fight was just over to our right. Having had the pleasure of thrutching through the Womb Fight since then, I'm not sure which finish I'd recommend.

Otherwise though, The Stoned Oven kicks ass!!

A much nicer belay at 11 may be had by doing the hard slab/penjy move and belaying from the stance between the choice of cracks on p.12. This provides a much better stance and anchors than belaying off the shitty old bolt and cramped stance in the guidebook.Full disclosure: I cannot claim to have climbed the S.O.; we arrived here via the Moveable Feast.

To add to theREALangry's comments:

Loose rocks: they are everywhere...it is the Black. End of P3: there are HUGE blocks right of the nut+sling anchor that are not supported on much. If possible, climb directly under the anchor. End of P11: depending on how you arrive at the ledge, there are large blocks that flexes. The only saving grace is that, at either location, you are unlikely to kill your belayer if you pull them loose.

P5: Belay right above, below or higher above the 11b roof problem, whatever. I ran out of gear right above it.

P7: if you don't have little shoulders (or climbs 5.12 OW), taking off your camelbak could be useful.

P8: We accidentally stopped short. But in doing so, it actually set up the next pitch to give the leader a better fall line. Hanging belay sucks (what do I know, hehe), but anchoring right under the bouldering problem wouldn't have been that restful either.

P9: Here's the extra motivation to just do the bouldering problem: do you really want to find out whether that bolt's gonna hold a fall?

A personal experience that may have little relevance: after gaining the platform at the end of P9, if you have no interest of bivying for the night, don't relax too much! I had the worst crash as I was about to follow P10. A clif bar, sips of water, plus some yelling brought my body from comatose to lead P11 and finish the route, but I was in despair for a moment.

Posted for realangry: it may be that you were off route on pitches 4 thru 6. 10 years ago my partner and I got lost in this same area and wound up penjying and scarily aiding a few crack systems right of what I know now as actual line. This ended under a rightward traversing roof/detatched block where we bailed leaving 2 Friends (red and purple HB quadcams, I believe). 2 or 3 rappels left to the base and rockfall partially severs both lines which made our already exciting retreat even better. Curious if those Friends you found were the ones we left (not that I want them if you took them). Pat Peddy.

splattipus:
So you were the one that sent us off route (and made me repeatedly fall & take), huh? The cams were left there, as they'd serve as scary but passable rap anchor. I noticed as I went through the right-curving flake and traversing back to almost directly above the cam anchor that there was a more direct looking (and easier) line starting just left of the cam anchor. It had a slight right curve, which would be consistent with the topo. Since nowhere else on the route had what felt like a sandbagged section, I assume we were off route.

I was Pat's partner 10 years ago. What I remember most vividly is pushing off a 4 ft block with my pinky. That and climbing 10+ above a 2 micro cam belay with no other gear. Then into a crack that literally turned to dirt. But I get carried away by memories.

By the way, there are a few nuts left in the base of that crack for anyone with interest.

We got the right line this spring. Bring a few 4 inch cams. Steve

It seems like a lot of people are getting lost somewhere around pitch 3-6. Could anyone who has done this route correctly post some definitive info about how to avoid getting off route?

Cheers,
Josh

In response to Josh Janes' comment, I believe we were on route for P3-5, and this description and the beta photo I just posted might help. The photo and comments need to be viewed together.

We did the route with a 70m cord. I thought it worked fine. I’m only putting in detail for 3-5, since they seem to cause the most consternation and the other descriptions on MP are pretty comprehensive for the rest of the route.

• P1 - 10+. Start not shown. Run two pitches together. Reach 2ft right at the roof for a good hold.

• P2 - 5.7. Go around the corner to the right. Belay at a very large ledge.

• P3 - 5.10. The tricky stuff. You could pick from about three lines. It looks like going straight up off the belay would be doable but tough (dirty). It would lead to the same belay unless you kept going hard left. We went right on the ledge about 15 feet. You’re walking at this point, and the ledge is maybe ten feet wide. You can actually step back and look up at the wall. There’s a blank face that keeps you from going too far right provided you’re shooting for the crux pitches, which you can see. We went up a sort of shallow arete on the left side of the face as described by others; reasonable pro. About 100ft up is fixed tat (nut, hex, I think). Good moderate climbing. After the tat, we kept going straight up, looked left for the large corner, did a easy traverse (some pro) hit the end of the 70 on a nice ledge below the short (20ft) steep corner. These features show up in the photo.

• P4 - 5.11. Short (20’) section of overhanging fingers/stemming. 5.11 for a few feet, very powerful, easier above to a good stance.

• P5 - 5.11. Head up a shallow corner for the “ear.” I handjammed around the right, my partner laybacked straight over. 5.11 for ten feet. Above, clip a fixed hex, look right for a bolt. Don’t clip the bolt, traverse low right. Traverse is 5.10 if you’re 5’10.” Probably harder if you’re shorter. Belay below the obvious crux pitches.

I will add a bit for route finding on the Stoned Oven. At the top of the long easy section-about 300 Ft up, there is a large ledge. There are many possible lines off the ledge. The correct line goes straight up at the highest part of the ledge-this is on the left side. After going straight up about 20 Ft, head about 5 Ft left into an indistinct corner. The first 30 Ft has marginal gear. Follow this to a ledge on the left. This is the belay for pitch 4. Above pitch 4 one is best off going through the small roof straight over head. This leads into the shallow dihedral that tends further left. Steve

Climbed this route last spring. We seemed to have gotten off-route once or twice in the same area everyone else seems to wander around in. I also clipped the "do not clip" bolt and ended up climbing straight above it to the belay (runout and thin. 11- slab?). Thanks to all who posted a better description, as the guidebook is not that great.

I thought the crux boulder problem after the enduro was the shit! way up there pulling an .11c move, not that hard. You can hang on the bolt, which is pretty good actually, and figure out the holds, then lower back down the 10 feet and send it!

Um.... Harder than Astrodog for sure. Especially considering the complex route finding.

This route is really, really good.

Certainly a double set of cams if not triples in the mid-sizes for the enduro corner pitch. It's long, sustained and eats gear. It's hard (and wide) off the belay then necks down then widens again before launching into the hands and thinner section. Long day, complex routefinding, and difficult climbing comprise Stoned Oven.

I don't really see how anyone can get off-route, it is pretty straightforward of a route for the Black!?