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Routes in (1) School Gate
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oh! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reincarnation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Seacrack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seaface T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stairway To Heaven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stepover S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warm-up Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Ta-Chi Wang |
| Page Views: | 642 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Danger on Dec 1, 2013 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
The holds are mostly good, and yet this climb still feels hard as fuck for the grade.
On a deceivingly overhanging wall, start up from the right side platform. Trust sharp slopers and marginally good crimps to fight your way up to the hump midway using some of the strangest holds you've ever touched - always positive but never quite good enough to stop the feeling of constantly falling off.
The midway hump offers opportunity for a decent rest before the 2nd half, which provides surprisingly good holds that will seem like gifts from God after the first section. An under cling out left lets you move into the inverted trapezoid section. The left edge of the 'zoid is sidepull jugs the whole way while the diagonally angled jugs on the right side are sidepull underclings.
Slip slap your way up using the sides of the otherwise blank face, then grab your huevos and launch for the huge pocket on the top right of the trapezoid. Is it good? yes it is. NOW you can clip! Finish at the anchors on big pockets that just get better and better.
On a deceivingly overhanging wall, start up from the right side platform. Trust sharp slopers and marginally good crimps to fight your way up to the hump midway using some of the strangest holds you've ever touched - always positive but never quite good enough to stop the feeling of constantly falling off.
The midway hump offers opportunity for a decent rest before the 2nd half, which provides surprisingly good holds that will seem like gifts from God after the first section. An under cling out left lets you move into the inverted trapezoid section. The left edge of the 'zoid is sidepull jugs the whole way while the diagonally angled jugs on the right side are sidepull underclings.
Slip slap your way up using the sides of the otherwise blank face, then grab your huevos and launch for the huge pocket on the top right of the trapezoid. Is it good? yes it is. NOW you can clip! Finish at the anchors on big pockets that just get better and better.
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