|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Winter 1990 CC .& DB.|
|Submitted By:||CDC on Jan 23, 2014|
|Comments on Stone Wall Action||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Nov 22, 2014
|Amazing line. A true testament to Doc and CC's mental game and physical prowess. Not a route to be taken lightly. Tom Caldwell and I replaced the sling and biners on the anchor of P2 as well as all the nuts on the anchor of P3. I look forward to redpointing this southern classic!|
From: Clemson, S.C.
Nov 23, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
What an amazing route! This adventure is not to be taken lightly. The harder climbing is well protected, but the moderate stuff not so much. I would recommend a rack of small gear to a #2 or #3, tricams, nuts, and doubles in the finger size. P3 requires one small piece of gear up high to take some of the sting out of the runout. So you can leave some weight with your belayer for this long sustained pitch.
Getting there: walk the base of the headwall until the ledge ends at a slab apron. The dihedral is easy to see above this.
P1: Start on some blocks out right and traverse the horizontal to get under the start of P1. Trend up and left towards two bolts and finish higher up in the corner where you can build a solid trad anchor. 11a, 9/10aR
P2: Climb the corner to the roof and traverse right under it. The crux sequence starts at the first bolt and continues until you hit the ledge. It is bouldery and sustained thin crimping, but safe. 11d/V4
P3: Climb up the bowl and clip the first bolt. Then get into a very difficult and sustained section that almost feels like water groove stemming. Keep clipping bolts as you trend up and right. Make a really difficult standup move to get to the first rest at the 3rd bolt. After this, the protection starts to spread out. Getting to the last bolt is quite exciting. Continue up to the gear anchor at the large ledge. 11d/+, 8R
P4: Head straight up and left clipping two bolts and b-line it to the trees at the top above.
Descent: Rap the climb by leaving a sling at one of the upper trees, or walk climbers right and rap from something on the water groove wall, or don't do the last pitch and rap the route.
P2 could use a second ring bolt and P3 two ring bolts. There is no need to continually have to replace soft goods because of sun damage. The anchor on P3 was an atrocious set of rusted nuts and worn out tat. If this were an easy walkoff climb the bolts would be unnecessary, but it is not and you have to leave a lot of personal gear if the fixed stuff is suspect. Two bolts would go nicely on the face to the right of the grass patch, with FA permission of course...
Nov 25, 2014
|Well said Thomas.|