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Goldenfingers Wall
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Stone They Rejected 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Gary Olsen, 1980's
Page Views: 1,862
Submitted By: triznuty on May 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Stone They Rejected 2) Goldenfingers


This is a must do in the canyon! Put your crimp skills to the test. The crux is after the 2nd bolt. Little run between 3rd and 4th bolt but mellow for sure. Good mantle at the top.


Located at Goldfinger Wall. It's the bolted line to the right of Goldfingers. Same start as Goldfingers but head right...


Bring webbing for the anchor(Tree) and there are 4 bolts to clip.

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By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jul 18, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Whoa, I'm glad someone else thought this was 5.10+. Slabby crimp skittles save the day. I've always thought goldfinger's crux was getting to the crack; that only gets the ball rolling here. Bolt number three is a manky ferguson buttonhead that inspired me to climb like a Gabe in some movie. A tricky lead let-alone solo.
By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 8, 2008

Read about Gary's solo of this route here:

First post in the thread. If you have time continue reading, great stuff.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Onsight solo FA!? Madness. Nice work.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Very technical route but the holds are there and it's very sendable once you dial the sequence. There definitely are a variety of sequences for this climb which makes it fun to do laps on. Some of the key holds, at least for me, are like holding onto Skittles!! I plan on building some better anchors around the tree very soon (there were no anchors when I did this route). A must do route in Ferguson!!
By wasatch boy
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 17, 2014

Stout. Warm up on some of the nearby 5.12s, then come try this one.
By Grant Burton
From: Holladay, UT
Apr 30, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I think the route looks a bit easier then it ends up being. Took a few falls trying to get to the third bolt, but the falls are decently clean. Crux is thin and technical, more mental than it is physical. No moves that are more difficult than the grade, but it can feel harder than some 11's in the canyon if you struggle to find the small pebbles, crystals, and crimps. Cool history behind the route, I wonder how much greasier the route has gotten since the FA. I would say no to a bolted Anchor, as there is a tree, and chains to the left of the route.

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