Stone the Crows is a Brit saying of incredulity or annoyance. Dedicated to a Raven friend who always greets us on our ascents. A fine long expedition with some excellent pitches. The route climbs to the biggest summit just north of Two Finger Canyon. See Topo.
Fourth class the gully passing right under a massive guano hole to a groove with a line of holes.
P1) Climb past four bolts and a couple of cams to double anchors. A nice pitch 150' 5.8
P2) Continue up the groove past two bolts then move right to tree belay. 70' 5.8. (Rap anchors 30' below the old tree)
P3) Go about 600' north along the massive ledge to a weakness in the wall that lies directly below the large blocks of the upper corner. Three bolts lead up the unlikely looking wall at a surprisingly low grade. Another bolt is out to the right. Continue up to the blocks and natural belay. 180' 5.7.
P4) Easy climbing up the big corner with small to medium cams. When just below the left slanting roof crack move round to the right then up to a good ledge. Single bolt belay, but can be backed up. 200' 5.6
P5) Tango to the top to a smiley face belay at the back of the ledge. 70' 5.3.
Scramble out left, then walk up the ridge to the fine summit with register in cairn. We were surprised to find that nine and a half years ago with Layne Potter I had climbed to this summit from the north forgetting drill bits for the descent raps. The climb we later named "Senile Dementia"
Descent:- Go back down the south ridge for at least 400' keeping eyes open to move left along a narrow ledge to rap anchors. A 200' rap brings one back to the massive ledge left of the start of pitch 3. Go back to top of P2. Rap anchors 30' below old tree.
Just north of Two Fingers Canyon . See Topo
Cams 1" to 3" Two 60m ropes
Paul on the 150' first pitch
Paul on P5
Andy following P1
BETA PHOTO: A) Approach.
B)Stone the Crows 5.8
Andy starting P2. Tele photo
The perfect Smiley belay for P5
Paul Following P2
The rap back to the massive ledge ends just left o...
Andy on 180' P3. Nice pitch
Higher on the 200' P4
Higher on P3
Andy top of P5
Near top of P3
Belay on summit .note white arrow showing trucks a...
Paul on P3
Descending back down the south ridge
Andy on the 200' P4
BETA PHOTO: Photo from camp at Two Fingers Canyon.