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Stone the Crows 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Ross Andy Ross (Var Leads) Gene Vallee
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 450
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 14, 2012

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Paul and Gene on the summit

Description 

Stone the Crows is a Brit saying of incredulity or annoyance. Dedicated to a Raven friend who always greets us on our ascents. A fine long expedition with some excellent pitches. The route climbs to the biggest summit just north of Two Finger Canyon. See Topo.
Fourth class the gully passing right under a massive guano hole to a groove with a line of holes.

P1) Climb past four bolts and a couple of cams to double anchors. A nice pitch 150' 5.8

P2) Continue up the groove past two bolts then move right to tree belay. 70' 5.8. (Rap anchors 30' below the old tree)

P3) Go about 600' north along the massive ledge to a weakness in the wall that lies directly below the large blocks of the upper corner. Three bolts lead up the unlikely looking wall at a surprisingly low grade. Another bolt is out to the right. Continue up to the blocks and natural belay. 180' 5.7.

P4) Easy climbing up the big corner with small to medium cams. When just below the left slanting roof crack move round to the right then up to a good ledge. Single bolt belay, but can be backed up. 200' 5.6

P5) Tango to the top to a smiley face belay at the back of the ledge. 70' 5.3.

Scramble out left, then walk up the ridge to the fine summit with register in cairn. We were surprised to find that nine and a half years ago with Layne Potter I had climbed to this summit from the north forgetting drill bits for the descent raps. The climb we later named "Senile Dementia"

Descent:- Go back down the south ridge for at least 400' keeping eyes open to move left along a narrow ledge to rap anchors. A 200' rap brings one back to the massive ledge left of the start of pitch 3. Go back to top of P2. Rap anchors 30' below old tree.

Location 

Just north of Two Fingers Canyon . See Topo

Protection 

Cams 1" to 3" Two 60m ropes


Photos of Stone the Crows Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on the 150' first pitch
Paul on the 150' first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on P5
Paul on P5
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy following P1
Andy following P1
Rock Climbing Photo: A) Approach. B)Stone the Crows 5.8
BETA PHOTO: A) Approach. B)Stone the Crows 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy starting P2. Tele photo
Andy starting P2. Tele photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The perfect Smiley belay for P5
The perfect Smiley belay for P5
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Following P2
Paul Following P2
Rock Climbing Photo: The rap back to the massive ledge ends just left o...
The rap back to the massive ledge ends just left o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy on 180' P3. Nice pitch
Andy on 180' P3. Nice pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on the 200' P4
Higher on the 200' P4
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on P3
Higher on P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy top of P5
Andy top of P5
Rock Climbing Photo: Near top of P3
Near top of P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay on summit .note white arrow showing trucks a...
Belay on summit .note white arrow showing trucks a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on P3
Paul on P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending back down the south ridge
Descending back down the south ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy on the 200' P4
Andy on the 200' P4
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo from camp at Two Fingers Canyon. A)Approach....
BETA PHOTO: Photo from camp at Two Fingers Canyon. A)Approach....

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