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North Clear Creek
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Old and in the way 
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Stone Temple Pilots aka (Rumors of War) 
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Stone Temple Pilots aka (Rumors of War) 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA:  FFA Steve Goins, bolted extension David Frazier
Season: Any
Page Views: 982
Submitted By: chummer on Jan 14, 2008
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Description 

Originally done by Steve Goins as a ridiculously pumpy gear climb this amazing route was later retro bolted. Super steep and unrelenting. No hard moves really but quite the pump. A most inspiring line.

A somewhat loose 40 foot section starts things off but at the ledge rock quality improves. Fun crack moves, jugs, and a few crimps get you to a rest. A big move takes you to the juggy roof. The upper headwall is steep and pumpy.

The climbing isn't over at the shuts. Move left at the anchors for more steep juggy moves. This allows you to climb all the way to the very top of the cliff. You could mantle the lip even. A long pitch. Done this way it's perhaps 5.12 c/d.


Location 

Located a bit further right from the obvious Rasputin roofs locate the grey rock below an obvious right leaning left facing corner below massive roofs.


Protection 

16 bolts. A few extra long below the flat roofs is key.
As of 12/25/2012 the bolt in the roof is missing a hanger. The anchors need replacing as well.



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