Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Beacon Rock
Outdoor Research Men's Adrenaline Gloves

$48.95 25% off

$36.69

at AltrecOutlet

15    more...
Millet Triolet 30 Backpack - 1830cu in

$139.85 29% off

$97.90

at DeptOfGoods

21    more...
Pearl Izumi ELITE AmFIB Tight - Men's

$134.99 20% off

$107.99

at AlsSports

36    more...
Petzl Aztar Ice Axe

$219.95 25% off

$164.96

at Backcountry

7    more...
MSR Hubba Hubba Tent - 2 Person

$329.99 30% off

$230.99

at AlsSports

1    more...
CAMP USA Stratos Harness

$89.95 25% off

$67.46

at Backcountry

37    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Select Route:
3rd Rail, The 
Bears in Heat 
Blownout 
Borderline 
Cruisin' 
Dorian's Dilemma 
Excalibur 
Fear of Flying 
Fireballs 
Free for Some 
Fresh Squeeze 
Gitmo Love Machine 
Head Case 
Jill's Thrill 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack 
Little Wing 
Lost Warriors 
Norseman, The 
Old Warriors Never Die 
Pipeline 
Rise Up 
Siege Tactics 
South East Corner 
Stone Rodeo 
Windsurfer 
Windwalker 
Winter Delight 
Young Warriors 

Stone Rodeo 

5.12b

   
193 page views
Good page?   

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
FA: FA 1987 Wayne Wallace & Robert McGown FFA June 1987 McGown & Dan Wright (Prior FFA? Joe Healy & Tangen Foster)
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Sep 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Stone Rodeo offers fun and interesting moves, but the aesthetic is decreased because of a few loose blocs. The first mini roof offers your first crux, but is followed by a good shake. After resting use a very interesting undercling (a slopperyesque downward point to the left) and then match it to move up and right. The final roof is the business. Jam the hand size crack with the left (I have big hands) and then shoot up and right towards the bloc. Just before the moves to the jam you have a good rest...place a longer runner on the bolt here. I hope with this little extra beta more of you will get on it and Stone Rodeo will become better!


Location 

One of the first routes you get to, Stone Rodeo tackles the imposing wall that is sectioned with two small roofs and one final big one. You can see the big beefy grey bolts.


Protection 

Bolts, nice and beefy. A few pitons. A number 6 metolius cam for final roof. (I thought the anchors could be lowered to near the skinny tree and will check to see if it can be done..as of now you must go 15 feet above final roof, making bad rope drag and letting the rope rub a bit to much).



Comments on Stone Rodeo Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Markett
May 22, 2012

The first free ascent of this route was done by McGowan and Wright, not by Healy. Healy tried to claim first free ascent many years after the fact saying that he climbed it before the first ascentionists so that he could try to justify his retro bolting of the climb.

By Healyje
May 22, 2012

Excuse me? And who are you? The climb as not been retrobolted - it was rebolted (and you're welcome).