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Stone Mountain

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Stone Mountain Bouldering 
Stone Mountain North Face 
Stone Mountain South Face 

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Stone Mountain 


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Location: 36.3916, -81.0473 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006
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The Great Arch and beyond

Description 

Like its more famous namesake near Atlanta, Stone Mountain is a huge granite dome, rising from the North Carolina foothills. But instead of carved Confederate generals galloping across its face, this Stone Mountain swarms with climbers on the some of the finest and most exposed friction climbing anywhere.

Though there’s climbing on the north face of the mountain, most people go for the better-known South Face. The most obvious route here, The Great Arch, is visible for miles, but it’s actually the least typical of Stone Mountain climbing.

Unlike the Arch, most multi-pitch routes here have sparse opportunities for protection. Stone Mountain is notorious for long and scary runouts: 30 feet or more between placements or bolts is commonplace. Climbing here is as much mental as physical – you’ve got to trust the friction.

Stone Mountain climbing goes back more than 40 years, when intrepid pioneers began making the first attempts at routes like the Arch and No Alternative. As Rich Gottlieb has observed from first-hand experience, climbing this 600-foot dome in the mid-60s was a whole other world. The first ascents were made without sticky rubber shoes, cams and other tools we take for granted these days. In spite of the difficulties, many of the classics, including the 5.10 Rainy Day Women, were established by 1975, using the strong North Carolina tradition of ground-up ascents and bolting on lead. Some of the early pioneers included George DeWolfe, Tom McMillan, Jim McEver and Bob Rotert.

More recently, Stone Mountain received a facelift of sorts when the Carolina Climbers Coalition sponsored a major rebolting of the dome’s routes and belay stations. Hundreds of old bolts were replaced with stout new ones, making the long runouts a little easier to bear.

Because of its southern exposure, the South Face is in full sun all day. Granite has the peculiar feature of having maximum friction in chilly weather and a somewhat greasy feel in heat; combine this with the blast-furnace atmosphere of summer, and you can see why Stone Mountain is most popular in the winter months.

A 60-meter rope is a must at Stone Mountain; better yet, two of them. Many rappels (including some from the Tree Ledge, where most of the face climbs begin) are best managed on double ropes. You can also use the walk-off trail from the summit. In terms of protection, a light rack should be more than enough for most routes other than the two well-known crack lines, and bolted anchors protect all belays.

Camping is available both in the park and at private campgrounds nearby. For a good meal – and a motel if you don’t feel like camping – head back down US 21 to Elkin.


Getting There 

Stone Mountain is near the foothills town of Elkin, which is about 70 miles north of Charlotte on I-77. After crossing the Yadkin River and exit signs for Elkin and Jonesville, get off on the US 21 exit. Go north on 21 for about eight miles and turn left on Traphill Road (NC 1002). You should see signs for Stone Mountain Park at this turnoff. Continue another four miles or so to John P. Frank Parkway (again noting park signs) and take a right. This continues about two miles to the park.


45 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',6],['5.9',17],['5.10',9],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stone Mountain:
The Great Arch   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Stone Mountain South Face
No Alternative   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Stone Mountain South Face
U Slot   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Stone Mountain South Face
Block Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Stone Mountain South Face
Yardarm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Stone Mountain South Face
The Pulpit   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   Stone Mountain South Face
Dirty Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Stone Mountain South Face
Grand Funk Railroad   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Stone Mountain South Face
Dixie Crystals   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Stone Mountain South Face
Mercury's Lead   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   Stone Mountain South Face
Great White Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Stone Mountain South Face
Fantastic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470'   Stone Mountain South Face
Storm in a Teacup   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Stone Mountain South Face
Electric Boobs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Stone Mountain South Face
Banana Breath   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Stone Mountain South Face
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 280'   Stone Mountain South Face
Rainy Day Women   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Stone Mountain South Face
Fleet Feet   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Stone Mountain South Face
Between The Ways   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   Stone Mountain South Face
Captain Crunch   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Stone Mountain South Face
Browse More Classics in Stone Mountain

Featured Route For Stone Mountain
Pitch 1 on Great White Way, Stone Mountain, NC.

Great White Way 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
This is the quintessential water groove route at Stone Mountain and like the guide book says...if your heart ain't racing and you ain't having fun...you must be dead.Start from the very left edge of the Tree Ledge. Look for the second water groove past the Great Arch.Pitch 1: Climb the water groove on the left side past 2 bolts, then step into the groove and climb past 2 more bolts to the anchor at a stance on the left of the groove. 5.9, 110 feet.Pitch 2: Ready to get your groove on? Climb...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Stone Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Stone Mtn from Cedar/Wolf rock area
Stone Mtn from Cedar/Wolf rock area
My brother regarding Stone
My brother regarding Stone
the center section in all its  evening glory
the center section in all its evening glory
Me at top of 1st pitch of No Alternative! I Lead the climb alot with a new climber(following), great 1st route for new Climbers!!!
Me at top of 1st pitch of No Alternative! I Lead t...
rest day fun at Stone Mt.
rest day fun at Stone Mt.
"Yeah, I did that route."
"Yeah, I did that route."
View of Stone Mountain from the field below.  I'm the nerd on the right.
View of Stone Mountain from the field below. I'm ...
yet another perspective...
yet another perspective...
NO ALTERNATIVE
NO ALTERNATIVE
Mercurys Lead, P1.
Mercurys Lead, P1.
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