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Stone Mountain South Face
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks 
Banana Breath 
Between The Ways 
Block Route 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home 
Captain Crunch 
Closer to the Heart 
Crystal Lizard 
Dirty Crack 
Dixie Crystals 
Electric Boobs 
Entrance Crack 
Fantastic 
Father Knows Best 
Fleet Feet 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 
Grand Funk Railroad 
Great Arch, The 
Great White Way 
Mercury's Lead 
No Alternative 
Pandora's Way 
Peer Pressure 
Pulpit, The 
Rainy Day Women 
Rice Krispies 
Storm in a Teacup 
Strawberry Preserves 
U Slot 
White Way Direct 
Yardarm 
Unsorted Routes:

Stone Mountain South Face 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 500'
Lat, Long: 36.3916, -81.0473 Map
Page Views: 90,737. Good page? (2 likes)   
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006

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Thunderstorm
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Thunderstorm
68° | 61°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
73° | 57°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
79° | 61°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
73° | 61°
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>


A nice view of the south face with several climbin...

Description 

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.


Getting There 

After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stone Mountain South Face:
The Great Arch   5.5     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   
No Alternative   5.5 PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   
U Slot   5.7+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   
Block Route   5.8- PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Yardarm   5.8 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   
Dirty Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
The Pulpit   5.8     Trad, 5 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II   
Crystal Lizard   5.8+ R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Grand Funk Railroad   5.9-     Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet   
Great White Way   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   
Dixie Crystals   5.9     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Mercury's Lead   5.9 R     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300 feet   
Autumn Speaks   5.9 PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 550 feet   
Fantastic   5.9 PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470 feet   
Storm in a Teacup   5.9+ PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Electric Boobs   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Rainy Day Women   5.10a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home   5.10a PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 280 feet, Grade II   
Fleet Feet   5.10     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Between The Ways   5.10 PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
Browse More Classics in Stone Mountain South Face

Featured Route For Stone Mountain South Face
Off to the races on P2 of No Alternative.  Photo by Fran.

No Alternative 5.5 PG13  NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
Another Stone Mountain classic, No Alternative is a great place to get a taste of the infamous runout climbing here without feeling like you're gonna die! The first half of the climb is like Great Arch -- it'll take all the pro you care to place. The upper half is a different story: pure friction climbing with one bolt 75 feet above the belay; you might be able to get a small cam in under one or two thin overhangs. At 5.5, though, its easy friction and great exposure.P1 -- follow a...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC


Photos of Stone Mountain South Face Slideshow Add Photo
start of great arch. no pro! man stick a cam in there.

start of great arch. no pro! man stick a cam in th...

broad view of south face showing many of the classics.

broad view of south face showing many of the class...

one of the great view's @top of stn mtn.

one of the great view's @top of stn mtn.