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The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.
After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.
37 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Stone Mountain South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stone Mountain South Face:
The Great Arch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
No Alternative 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
U Slot 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Block Route 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
The Pulpit 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
Dirty Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Yardarm 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Grand Funk Railroad 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Dixie Crystals 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Mercury's Lead 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Great White Way 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Fantastic 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470'
Storm in a Teacup 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Electric Boobs 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Sport, 2 pitches, 280'
Rainy Day Women 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Banana Breath 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Fleet Feet 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Between The Ways 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13 Sport, 2 pitches, 250'
Captain Crunch 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Stone Mountain South Face
Fantastic 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
The name of this route really says it all. A rare beautiful crack that offers some exciting moves over gear. Don't worry though, there is still enough runout slab climbing to prevent you from thinking you are any where else.Start at the base of the left leaning crack. Climb the crack for about 30 feet then step right onto waves in the rock. Clip 2 bolts on your way out right, then make a step over a bulge and gain ground to the belay. 5.9+, 90'P2 Start up and head left, locate a bolt and keep mo...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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