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Stone Mountain South Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchor Rode T 
Another Alternative T 
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Blood On The Tracks T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Direct Start to Arch T 
Dirty Crack T 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Dream On T 
Dream Waves T 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Impossible Dream T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
P.F. Flyers T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Purring, The T 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Sermon, The T 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Taken For Granite T 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
Wahoo Start T 
White Way Direct T 
Yardarm T 
Zoo Love T 
Unsorted Routes:

Stone Mountain South Face Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 500'
Location: 36.3916, -81.0473 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 181,313
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006
This Afternoon

50° | 30°

48° | 37°
Thanksgiving Day

54° | 44°

58° | 46°

58° | 41°

48° | 38°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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A nice view of the south face with several climbin...


The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.

Getting There 

After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.3 miles from here

51 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Stone Mountain South Face:
No Alternative   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
The Great Arch   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
U Slot   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Block Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Yardarm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
The Pulpit   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   
Grand Funk Railroad   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Great White Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Taken For Granite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Fantastic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470'   
Dixie Crystals   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Mercury's Lead   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   
Electric Boobs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Storm in a Teacup   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Rainy Day Women   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 280'   
Between The Ways   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   
Fleet Feet   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Great Brown Way   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Captain Crunch   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Stone Mountain South Face

Featured Route For Stone Mountain South Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Birmingham Ben leading P1 of ML

Mercury's Lead 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
Climb to the very high first bolt. Clip it with great relief, and continue up past one more bolt to several belay options. Either belay at a flake on gear, The Great Arch bolts, or the belay atop "Storm In A Teacup." From the "Storm In A Teacup" belay, move out right past a short flake/crack (possible to get gear) and climb a long, but easier pitch past one bolt to an anchor just below the top (there may be one more bolt on this pitch, I can't remember)....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Stone Mountain South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: one of the great view's @top of stn mtn.
one of the great view's @top of stn mtn.
Rock Climbing Photo: start of great arch. no pro! man stick a cam in th...
start of great arch. no pro! man stick a cam in th...
Rock Climbing Photo: broad view of south face showing many of the class...
broad view of south face showing many of the class...
Rock Climbing Photo: south face
south face

Comments on Stone Mountain South Face Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Plymouth
May 16, 2014
Climbed here in May, 1988 with Jim Shimberg and agreed, it does get greasy humidity on the rock. Run outs were WTF with old 1/4" hardware bolts. no guide book and we did two, probably 5.9's and the classic arch. Didn't think much about grade when I was going to hit the ground after the second bolt. The bolts were spaced reasonably, meaning there was a slope bump to have a stance to hammer a hole in the rock. very rusty crap in 1988 and N.C.N.F. would not permit retro-bolting or doing any new bolted routes. Jim and I thought eventually climbers would be killed here by failing anchors. Glad we got down rappelling and really relieved Stone Mountain was face lifted. there were dozens of goats there.

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