Stone Mountain South Face Rock Climbing
A nice view of the south face with several climbin...
The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.
All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.
After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.
Weather station 8.3 miles from here
51 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Stone Mountain South Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Stone Mountain South Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Stone Mountain South Face:
U Slot 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Block Route 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Yardarm 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
The Pulpit 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
Fantastic 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470'
Fleet Feet 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Featured Route For Stone Mountain South Face
Mercury's Lead 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Stone Mountain
: Stone Mountain South Face
Climb to the very high first bolt. Clip it with great relief, and continue up past one more bolt to several belay options. Either belay at a flake on gear, The Great Arch bolts, or the belay atop "Storm In A Teacup." From the "Storm In A Teacup" belay, move out right past a short flake/crack (possible to get gear) and climb a long, but easier pitch past one bolt to an anchor just below the top (there may be one more bolt on this pitch, I can't remember)....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
start of great arch. no pro! man stick a cam in th...
BETA PHOTO: Tree ledge from slightly right of center.
broad view of south face showing many of the class...
one of the great view's @top of stn mtn.
BETA PHOTO: Rap station from the tree ledge to the base. Two ...
By bradley white
May 16, 2014
Climbed here in May, 1988 with Jim Shimberg and agreed, it does get greasy humidity on the rock. Run outs were WTF with old 1/4" hardware bolts. no guide book and we did two, probably 5.9's and the classic arch. Didn't think much about grade when I was going to hit the ground after the second bolt. The bolts were spaced reasonably, meaning there was a slope bump to have a stance to hammer a hole in the rock. very rusty crap in 1988 and N.C.N.F. would not permit retro-bolting or doing any new bolted routes. Jim and I thought eventually climbers would be killed here by failing anchors. Glad we got down rappelling and really relieved Stone Mountain was face lifted. there were dozens of goats there.