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Stone Mountain North Face

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Stone Mountain North Face 


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Location: 36.3953, -81.0453 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,498
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Dominion Rognstad on Oct 19, 2011
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Description 

This is the North Face of Stone Mountain. A shady alternative for friction climbing during the summer. More secluded than the Southern Face, generally steeper as well.


Getting There 

Parking for North Face is generally at the Lower Trailhead on the northside of the park.

To get to routes on the western side, take the Stone Mtn. Loop trail (orange circles) up about half way then cut down to your left traversing a long to the tree line.

Eastern routes of the North Face are accessed from summit by either taking the trail or a South facing route to the top. Rap down from the small pine. Bring double ropes.


Climbing Season


4 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Stone Mountain North Face
North Face general layout and access.  The arrow marks the Great Arch route to the summit.

Zen Slab 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain North Face
3 pitches, two of real climbing, crux is on a lichen filled groove on P2. P1 is full of exfoliating rock, and could be very spicy due to loose footing. With some more traffic it could clean up well. A brush wouldn't be the worst thing to happen to the route....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

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By Noah.J
From: Carrboro, NC
Apr 14, 2014

The directions on the page here for the North Face aren't quite right. If you start at the summit and head directly north out onto the slab, trending slightly west along the treeline, the first visible anchors to rap down from are a pair of shiny stainless bolts over Zen Slab and Dark Star, the two furthest west routes. It is then a rope stretching 200' rap down to the anchors over Zen Slab, and a further two raps to some steepish 4th class slab where you can bushwack out to the road, or top back out on some of the routes.

If you're trying to hit Indian Lookout and nearby routes, head right along the slab on the north side of the summit. I've attached an aerial pic showing the general directions to the Zen Slab page. These routes could use some love, they're pretty exfoliating/lichen filled as is, but with a bit of traffic could be excellent. Hopefully a better description will get some traffic on the routes.

By Jonathan Dull
From: NC High County
Apr 16, 2014

Noah, are there more routes on the north face than are shown on Mountain Project? A published guide of sorts?

By Noah.J
From: Carrboro, NC
Apr 16, 2014

The 3rd edition Kelley Guide has them all. Keep an eye on out Amazon, sometimes it's stupid expensive ($900+), but then it will drop down to the ~$40-50 range. Currently it's $44, so I'd hop on it. Superior to the L and S guide in a lot of ways.

By David Barbour
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 17, 2014

rockclimbing.com has a lot more than MP as well.