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Monsters from the Id
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abominable Snowman S 
Boogieman , The S 
Cosmic Monsters S 
Doctor No S 
Feeding Frenzy S 
Heaven S 
Heavenly Monsters S 
Journey to a Mushroom Planet T,S 
Little Demon S 
Monster Crossing S 
Parallel Universe S 
Source of Madness S 
Stone Monkey S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
White Zombie S 

Stone Monkey 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Erik Mushial
Page Views: 3,097
Submitted By: Peter Beal on May 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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danny on stone monkey

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To the right of Mushroom Planet is a dihedral-like feature with an undercling hold near the end of it. Stick clip the first bolt and a directional and boulder (V7?) to the undercling and romp up the jugs above.

A very popular and relatively soft option for the grade but a good climb nevertheless. The sitstart seems a bit much--maybe try another route.

Protection 

5 bolts


Photos of Stone Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nadya cranking hard on the moves right before the ...
Nadya cranking hard on the moves right before the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: trying to control that damn swing out...
trying to control that damn swing out...
Rock Climbing Photo: sorry i forgot your name but it was a pleasure sha...
sorry i forgot your name but it was a pleasure sha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Copyright: Greg Shyloski
Copyright: Greg Shyloski
Rock Climbing Photo: i forgot your name too but again, nice to meet you...
i forgot your name too but again, nice to meet you...

Comments on Stone Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 10, 2008

I've heard many people call this soft... I thought it felt wicked hard so i think i need some good beta... anyone want to spray some?...
By James Otey
From: NH
May 10, 2008

I've heard people call this anywhere from V7-V9... Beta would be great!
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 11, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

You know what the hardest thing about sending Stone Monkey is, right?



Telling your friends you're a boulderer.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 11, 2008

haha...well im not ready to go down that road...
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 12, 2008

Per comments on Doctor No, this was another obvious route to be added. Rumney climbers help out those of us who want to visit!
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jun 23, 2010

I'd give the boulder problem at the bottom V8 and the top half maybe 5.11d. Not sure what that adds up to, but it felt pretty stout to me.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Aug 28, 2013

i have beta, well most of it, if u guys want the low down feel free to pm me. . . easy depends on your compression skillz.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 12, 2013

I find it funny that this route's quality rating is evenly split between 1, 2, 3 and 4 stars... perhaps the least agreed on quality rating at Rumney... haha
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 24, 2013

I figured out beta for this today and found it to be better than i thought... maybe a 2 star... i wasn't able to link it today but it felt doable and i will get back on it...
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Jun 16, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Felt like a V7 boulder to me at the bottom. Compared to Charlie Don't Surf (different style, but HARD) this thing is a piece of cake. There are a couple of youtube vids with great beta.

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