Stone Love 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Randy Leavitt and Bob Horan, 1981 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on May 15, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: 'Stone Love (10d, PG-13)' comes up the SW face of ...
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Description This route is a fabulous route with a little so-so rock. The real business happens on good solid stone though. The wild position and gymnastic moves are memorable enough to make this a "must do" adventure climb despite of the short section of poor rock before the crux. Locate this climb by hiking to the South side of the Box, just above (west of) the concave wall. There is an obvious hand-to-fist crack rising up though the bottom of the West end to a huge ledge, the first pitch. The second pitch is a crack running out right (southeast), diagonally through a 5-meter roof and overhang.
P1. Climb up the handcrack and belay by slinging a HUGE boulder with your cordalette. When your partner arrives, move the belay behind the same car sized boulder and out toward P2.
P2. Climb the crack on P2 and pass the roof to a slab. Once on the slab you can continue right to the tree and belay at the tree. Alternately, if your partner is not strong, and you are kind, you will NOT have placed any gear after the crux of the climb and will instead of finishing up right, will climb up and left to a high point over the crux, perhaps 7 meters up to belay on hand-to-fist sized cams. If (s)he pops off, there will be no big swing.
To descend, cross The Box to the North from the tree though a notch. Scramble slightly down, then traverse West to the Base of Aunt Jennifer's Tigers (all 3rd class).
Protection Pitch #1 goes on Cams 2" and up. I placed one #2 and one #3 Camalot. Another #3 or a #3.5 would have been nice to have. Pitch #2 goes on a few nuts and small cams to 2"
Before the crux. Photo by Clint Dillard.
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In the crux. Photo by Clint Dillard.
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After the crux...yeah, I sewed it up. Photo by Cl...
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Clint on the 1st pitch. The 2nd pitch is visible ...
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Shawn puts up pitch 1.
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Jay scoots up p1, Joshua sends p2.
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Jay on p2.
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By Dave Stewart
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2007
| Short crux. Good gear. I belayed in the small alcove directly after the crux on the slab. If you place a directional after the crux, your partner is safe from swinging if they fall. The walk off on the north side is easy to get to (4th class) from here. |
By Rich Farnham
Jul 17, 2009
| Great climb! Well worth the hike. I got a bomber green alien just after the crux. You can hang off a jug and reach back to place it to protect the second.
I belayed in the alcove Dave recommended and enjoyed being able to lean out and watch my partner come through the crux. The anchor is mostly hand-size pieces. I had two reds and a gold camalot.
I think the only doubles I used were the red alien, and the red (#1) camalot. |
By bhoran
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2009
| Stone Love was scoped out and climbed by Randy Leavitt and I in 1981, after the ascent we hiked down slope to the northwest west into Skunk Canyon and scoped out Grande Parade and Production Line on the far west ridge of its north slopes, we returned the next day and climbed those. For trivia sake, The Box, the formation on which Stone Love can be found, was the cover photo, front and back, on the 1988, Boulder Climbs North guidebook. The right-angling crack system can be seen splitting the left side of the formation. |
By Shawn Mitchell
From: Broomfield
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.10+
| Amazing airy moves! Footwork makes a lot of difference. P 1 is grainy but fun, and entirely optional. You can scramble up to p 2 from the right, or walk around and down to it from the left.
Per the guide book...40 minutes to approach??? Put on your track shoes. |
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