Stone IPA  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Mike K, Manuel R, & Chris H New Route:  Yes Season:  fall through spring Submitted By:  Mike on Feb 20, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

We ran out of bolts so the first one is still out@...

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Description 

A nice 2 pitch line up the west side of the south face of the Beer Bottle.

P1: (5.11, 120') Walk up & right along the base of the spire, then traverse left to the start. Place 1 or 2 thin pieces, then face climb past 2 bolts + some optional small gear. Continue up past a short loose section to a fabulous finger crack. Climb this until it tips out, then up & right past a bolt (crux) to a nice stance under a roof. Out left then up a left facing corner (small & medium nuts) in the limestone band on nice face & crack moves, and step right onto the ledge. A nice belay ledge & 2 bolts await atop the limestone band.

P2: (5.11-, 80') Up and left from the belay, passing a bolt, then up a thin crack (10+/11-) that widens to locker fingers. Continue up the great finger crack past an overlap to easier ground, then up and right to the top.

Descent: Continue up & over the spire to a bolted rappel anchor on the opposite (north) side. 1 single rope rappel gets you to the ground, then scramble back to the start.

Location 

Located on the west side of the south face of the Beer Bottle.

Protection 

6 bolts. For the rack the following should sew it up quite nicely: 1 grey metolius, 1-2 purple metolius, 3 each of both blue & yellow metolius, 1-2 each .5, .75, & #1 camalots, 1 each #2 & #3 camalots. Some runners would be nice.

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Finishing p2 just as day ended.