||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Mike K, Manuel R, & Chris H|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||fall through spring|
|Page Views: ||592|
|Submitted By: ||Mike on Feb 20, 2013|
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We ran out of bolts so the first one is still out;...
A nice 2 pitch line up the west side of the south face of the Beer Bottle.
P1: (5.11, 120') Walk up & right along the base of the spire, then traverse left to the start. Place 1 or 2 thin pieces, then face climb past 2 bolts + some optional small gear. Continue up past a short loose section to a fabulous finger crack. Climb this until it tips out, then up & right past a bolt (crux) to a nice stance under a roof. Out left then up a left facing corner (small & medium nuts) in the limestone band on nice face & crack moves, and step right onto the ledge. A nice belay ledge & 2 bolts await atop the limestone band.
P2: (5.11-, 80') Up and left from the belay, passing a bolt, then up a thin crack (10+/11-) that widens to locker fingers. Continue up the great finger crack past an overlap to easier ground, then up and right to the top.
Descent: Continue up & over the spire to a bolted rappel anchor on the opposite (north) side. 1 single rope rappel gets you to the ground, then scramble back to the start.
Located on the west side of the south face of the Beer Bottle.
6 bolts. For the rack the following should sew it up quite nicely: 1 grey metolius, 1-2 purple metolius, 3 each of both blue & yellow metolius, 1-2 each .5, .75, & #1 camalots, 1 each #2 & #3 camalots. Some runners would be nice.
Finishing p2 just as day ended.
By Ryan Z
Jan 18, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I had a rack of singles from red C3 - #3 camelot and I had plenty of gear left over atop both pitches. Great climb! First pitch is sustained, well protected, and thought provoking. 11-/11. 2nd pitch is beautiful slabby climbing on great rock to a wonderful low angle tips crack (red C3 or blue metolius) 5.10. This is definitely a hidden gem. Get on it!