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Stone Groove T 

Stone Groove 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell & Galen Rowell, 1971
Season: year round
Page Views: 5,340
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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Rick Cashner soloing "Stone Groove", 1984.
Photo b...

Description 

Cool climb up a corner to start. The first 30 feet are the crux. Tight hands and some hard moves. After that, sustained but tons of fun. Cool rock.


Location 

Right of Lunatic Fringe in a clear spot. Look for the amazing small corner.


Protection 

Doubles to #2 C4 Camalots.



Photos of Stone Groove Slideshow Add Photo
Stone Groove
BETA PHOTO: Stone Groove
Lou Dawson higher up Stone Groove, fall 1973
Lou Dawson higher up Stone Groove, fall 1973
The Crux Stone Groove 5.10b Yosemite 2007
The Crux Stone Groove 5.10b Yosemite 2007
Lou Dawson starting up Stone Groove, fall 1973
Lou Dawson starting up Stone Groove, fall 1973
Getting through the crux Stone Groove. Classic Jim Bridwell route!
Getting through the crux Stone Groove. Classic Jim...
stone groove
stone groove
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 28, 2013
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 22, 2007

Burly and historic route.

FA: Jim Bridwell & Galen Rowell, 1971. Near the cutting edge of free climbing in that era. Important to include the history of these climbs.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 15, 2007

A great route with excellent protection throughout. A bit too short for true "classic" status, but still really good.

By armando fimbrez
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 26, 2008

VEry fierce and classic climb! Takes good gear all the way.Once through the crux the climbing is straight forward sustained all the way to the top! Done it a couple of times.

By Osprey
From: ...
May 30, 2010

The second pitch should not be forgotten. 5.8 hands in a right facing corner! If pitch one is too short, then do both pitches in one.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed letter grades for 5.10. His examples for 5.10a thin cracks were; Stone Groove, Swan Slab (P2), Sacherer Cracker, Siberian Swarm Screw, East Corner of Higher Cathedral, and Central Pillar of Frenzy (p2 & p6).

By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Ken - In no way am I in the position to question Bridwell, but I think a lot of folks would agree that Stone Groove is harder than anything on Central Pillar of Frenzy (first 5 pitches, anyway).

By Jason Holliday
From: Blacksburg, VA
May 13, 2011

Indeed. Stone Groove is substantially harder than p2 on Central Pillar.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 12, 2011

Short, stout, and awesome.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 19, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Cruxes were a bit easier than Lunatic Fringe, but this route felt much more sustained and insecure on the jams.

The top anchors can be reached by a fun 5.9 variation around the corner to the right that is worth doing in its own right (I'd give it 2-3 stars). Bring pro through #4 BD C4 and be prepared for some sustained & steep jamming, with occasional surprise stems to keep things reasonably easy. There is a little loose rock that is easy to avoid, and a fun lieback on a hollow flake (1-2 #2 C4s) that transitions to a bear hug & mantle to finish.

The second 5.8 pitch above Stone Groove is a LOT harder than the 5.9 approach pitch and it is not hands (well maybe the first part is). It is a very tight & flaring squeeze chimney that takes good elbows-up chikenwinging. There is no pro except for sliding a #6 BD C4 until you reach the chockstone near the top (takes a #1 BD C4?). If you have good flexibility you can reach around and place a small cam in a dirty seam behind you to backup the #6, though it might not hold much of a fall. The #6 is barely large enough to protect as it is slid along or re-set beyond the wider parts. The crux is getting through where the chimney widens just before the chockstone. This pitch was short but burly and very worth doing! (3 stars) Bring minimal pro, as gear definitely gets in the way leading this pitch.

Rap anchors for the 5.8 P2 are old and need replacing. We added some new webbing to tie elements together and added a rappel ring. The top shares the same belay as one of the pitches of the Rorp (5.7) so this route could be TRed from this alternate approach or used as a part of a very lengthy but 5.5ish way to set up a TR on P1 of Stone Groove.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

No need to do any silly variations or anything, this thing protects very well and is a blast (not to mention quite fierce, in that classic friendly Yosemite way). Only reason not to get on it might be crowds, but we didn't encounter any on a gorgeous Sunday in early November...

By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 28, 2013

I'm not the best crack climber, but I found this to be really sustained due to virtually no left feet. For my large hands, the hand jams were generally good most of the way, but where the crack was more constricted and the jams tentative, it felt super tough. Seemed like the key was to read the crack carefully and foot jam high in spots in order to skip over the tough hands portions.

I read that the "roof" portion was the crux, however again with large hands, I did not find this to be true - the narrower crack down low was harder. Above the roof, the terrain felt generally easier.

Pro is definitely bomber just about all the way, so good route on which to push your limits!