Stone Door @ Savage Gulf State Park. Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Stone Door @ Savage Gulf State Park.

L › R R › L A › Z

	Campsite Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Cornflake Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Directissma T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Monster Movie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nose, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Rude Awakenings T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Vanderbuilt Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Whiskey Religion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation:	1,807 ft
GPS:	35.4328, -85.6627 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	25,342 total · 128/month
Shared By:	Stonyman Killough on Jan 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

As with all areas in the south, the climbing is better on a seasonal time scale. Since sand rock sweats during humid times during the summer, it's probably best to climb during early spring and early into late fall! The rock there is sandstone and is quality climbing, but be careful, there is some loose rock. It's usually not too crowded at the trad routes, but there is a toprope wall at the base that Vanderbilt University uses for classes and it is sometimes a little crowded.

From the ranger's station, it's about a mile to the cliff line (great trail to the cliff) then it's down the staircase through the namesake "Stone Door," which is the access route to the bottom that the early Indians used. The tallest section there is about 154 ft. With a great view!! This area has 14 trad routes and a few toprope routes that go from easy to moderate trad routes from His Majesty 5.4 to Rude Awakenings 5.11 and the only top rope area is at the Vanderbilt Wall that goes from 5.5 to 5.8 at 65 ft. and is at the bottom of the staircase, the rest is trad only!

Getting There

From Chattanooga, take Interstate 24 west to the South Pittsburg exit. Go left toward Kimball and Jasper to Hwy. 41 and follow 41 to Tracy City to Hwy. 56 to Altamont. Turn right on Hwy. 50 and follow signs to Beersheba Springs, then follow signs to Stone Door/Savage Gulf. At the parking lot, sign in, then follow trail to bluff's edge(Stone Door).

From Nashville, take Interstate 24 east toward Chattanooga and get off at Pelham/Hwy. 50 exit. Go left to Beersheba Springs and follow Stone Door/Savage Gulf signs to Stone Door parking lot.

From Dunlap, take Tn. 8/111 and take a left at Tn. 339 and from there you will see the entrance not too far from there. The other way is from McMinnville on Tn. 56 to Beersheba Springs, then turn left on a side road with the state park sign and follow to a fork in the road and then bear right to the entrance of the park. Make sure you go to the Stone Door area for climbing!!