|Type:||Trad, Sport, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||camhead on Jan 13, 2012|
|South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Stolen Tiggers||Add Comment|
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From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 13, 2012
(more details that I am not putting in the description, so as not to ruin any onsights)
This is a really fun route, deserving of more than the two stars that Mikey gives it in the NRG guidebook. For gear, I placed a great horizontal, runnered 3 camalot at the back of the roof. In the actual roof crack, it looks like you want to put a hand-sized piece in the hand-sized pod midway through the roof. However, if you do this, you will not have anywhere to put your hands. There is actually a really good blue tcu or .3 camalot that you can slide in just behind the pod.
Pulling the roof crack is one of the coolest sequences I've done; it actually climbs a lot like videos I have seen of Fiddler on the Roof at Fremont Canyon, except you are working with a hand jam instead of a tips lock.
Some might think this is a bit soft at the grade.