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Wheeler Gorge
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It Is It S 
Little Buckaroo S 
Ripple Rider S 
Roadside Distraction S 
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Silent Mind S 
South of the Trout Farm S 
Stolen From Mike S 
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 
Velocity Boy S 
Wheel, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Stolen From Mike 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Levanduski & Eric Benaventes (2014)
Page Views: 291
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 20, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Wheeler Gorge
Yellow: Cruiser (5.9)...

Description 

Climbs past an overhang and then climbs low-angle rock to the top. The overhang proves to be easier than it looks, while the slabby stuff above proves to be harder than it looks--altogether an interesting route.

Location 

Starts 8 feet left of Cobble Climb

Protection 

5 Bolts to 2-bolt anchor with chains.
The first 3 lead bolts are 3/8" Rawls. The next 2 are 1/2" Rawls.


Photos of Stolen From Mike Slideshow Add Photo
The only strange thing about this route is the location of the first bolt. Its placement in a protruding cobble does not inspire confidence. Many cobbles have pulled out over the years at Wheeler Gorge. As shown in the lower of the photos, there is a gaping hole from a pulled cobble just a couple of feet away from the first bolt.  <br /> <br />Since the first bolt protects the clear crux of the route, I was definitely wishing for something more reassuring.
The only strange thing about this route is the loc...

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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 20, 2014

I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing on this route. The crux move arrives at the first bolt. Rock over onto a high right foot to pull past the roof. The next three bolts are interesting 5.8 climbing. Then things ease up.

Still has a lot of lichen, but it did not detract too much.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 10, 2014

3/8" bolts down low; 1/2" bolts up high; seems to defy logic in terms fall forces...
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Aug 22, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is called 'Stolen From Mike' and was done ground up with aid.
FA: Mike Levanduski
FFA: Erick Benaventes (sp?)

Sounds like Erick tried to bolt it on aid but bailed, with Mike coming in later to finish bolting it and finally Erick leading it free. It was reportedly Erick's first go at bolting, hence the bolted cobble and confusing mix of hardware.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Sep 5, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The bolt in the protruding cobble has been moved and replaced with a beefy 1/2"x4" Rawl five piece. Thanks guys.