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Doupianifels
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Östkante 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Hasse & Stutte 1976
Season: dry (spring and/or fall best)
Page Views: 715
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Dec 16, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: East Ridge of Doupianifels (on the left skyline).

Description 

Classic line up the East Ridge. Great position, good views, tightly bolted crux, runout easier sections.

Pitch 1: scramble up the easy ridge with 3 protection bolts. 5.4 40m.

Pitch 2: up ridge passing two bolts in 25 meters. 5.5.

Pitch 3: Either traverse straight left on big holds to a groove (5.8ish) or angle up passing a bolt to the base of a shallow trough (5.7ish). Finish up groove, passing several trees, to belay. 2 bolts in 25m.

Pitch 4: Crux pitch. Climb up steep rock and some large cobbles. Tightly bolted for the area. 5 lead bolts in 35m. 5.10a or 5.8+/A0.

Neat summit with great views.


Location 

The very obvious and dramatic East Ridge of Doupianifels. Start right at the toe of the ridge with a low angle scramble. Rappel route.

We did manage, in a juicy rainstorm, to rappel the route in 4 30 m rappels, but, I seem to recall we used anchors to climber's right for the last two rappels and ended up in the trees/weeds to the climber's right of the east ridge.


Protection 

Sparsely bolted, but, tightly bolted at the crux. There are some trees near the top of pitch 3 that can be slung for protection. Fixed anchors are large single glued-in rings.



Photos of Östkante Slideshow Add Photo
Stepping up for the crux of Ostkante on pitch 4.
Stepping up for the crux of Ostkante on pitch 4.
Pitch two anchor on Ostkante.  Standard fare in Meteora.
Pitch two anchor on Ostkante. Standard fare in Me...
Climbing pitch two of Ostkante.
Climbing pitch two of Ostkante.
Ostkante follows the obvious left ridge.  You can also see the dirt path on the right that leads to the north-side routes.
Ostkante follows the obvious left ridge. You can ...
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