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Stirrup Rock has something for everyone, anytime of the year. The south face is a wind-sheltered sunbowl on the most frigid days of winter, while the north face catches shade in the warmer seasons. The crag is notable for its bulletproof dark-brown patina, which is flawless, with a smattering of light-colored stone, which isn't. On the south side, Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater is a tricky .10 finger crack with a low crux, while Overpowered By Funk just to the right is an ultra classic 5.12b toprope (or exciting lead). On the north face, Jugular Vein (5.8) is an amazing moderate that swallows gear, while Freckle Face (5.11a) will elicit a smile even as your fingers and forearms pump out for the finishing crux.
From the parking area, head west to Zippy rock, then turn right and head north to the major big brown crag with the long tall fingercrack. Scramble around the right(east) end to access the routes on the north side. Descend the slab on the east end to a rap from bolts or a couple easy fifth-class smears down to the boulders.
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stirrup Rock:
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Jugular Vein 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Stirrup Rock - North Face
This quality route is located on the shady north side of Stirrup Rock. Start up New Toy (5.6) for about 15' and then cut right to meet a vertical crack/dike which is followed to the top. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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