|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||doligo on Aug 13, 2009|
|Comments on Stinky Americans||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Denis O'Connor
Mar 9, 2010
|This route is leadable at PG.|
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010
|Deceptively tricky crux. Personally, I thought this climb was harder than fickle fingers and golden dream.|
Jul 28, 2011
Maybe you were inadvertently on "Completely Francois" (5.10d)?
Edit - Disregard that...CF is not close enough to get involved.
I did notice that it matters which side of the vertical crack you're on. One side might be quite straightforward if you're really tall. Otherwise, you're going to have to work a bit. I'd call this 9+ the way I did it (I'm not esp. tall) but anyone who couldn't reach what I did would be in solid 5.10 territory.
Also, the start is not "a couple feet left of SM". It's almost at the arete (left end of the face).
By Anthony Nguyen
Nov 18, 2011
|I also think this is more difficult than Golden Dream, especially if you are height disadvantaged. It's also fun to climb the face with side pulls on the left arete. 9+|