Lone Star (submitted as Stinkbug)
|Original: || Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A [details]|
|FA: ||Tommy Caldwell|
|Season: ||Spring and Fall, 50 degrees and below|
|Page Views: ||729|
|Submitted By: ||tcamillieri on Aug 24, 2009|
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There are two independent cruxes for this problem. The first is the first two moves involving a long tension-filled right hand slap and a hard match (try keeping your feet on). The second involves going to a slopy hold and then a better albeit higher crimp, a committing heel hook helps.
Upon finding the ridge-line of talus from the Glacier Gorge parking, like hike downhill until the talus begins to become more scattered. If approaching from this direction, Lone Star aka Stinkbug will be slightly on your left, and the problems will be hidden on the opposed face.
2 pads and a spotter for the heel hook crux.
|Comments on Lone Star (submitted as Stinkbug)
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 12, 2016
If Tommy did the FA and named this Lone Star, then why was the name changed and why is the name change upheld here?