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Select Route:
(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) 
(un-named) 5.7 arete 
5.8 Corner 
Banana Route 
Bird's Nest Crack 
Black Magic 
Butter D Licious 
Chimney Route 
City Of Worms 
Cloudy Day 
Dance with the Devil 
Dead Reckoning 
Easy Street 
Exit Stage Right 
Flight of the Swallows 
Full Moon Bar B Que 
Golden Arch 
Golden Arches 
Graham's Crack 
Hob Knob 
Hot Steele 
Hot Wing 
Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge 
Man Overboard 
Mean Lean 
Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) 
Minnie Driver 
Modern Day Pirates 
Mystery Slab 
New Ideal 
no name (on Wolf Wall) 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The 
Polar Express 
project on Wolf Wall 
Psycho Killer 
Putting Out the Vibe 
Renegade Trad 
Scooter Girl 
Song of the Cows 
Steele Head 
Stepping Out 
Sugar Magnolia 
Suspended Animation 
Three Pitch 
Tornado on your Birthday 
Uncertain Return 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. 
unnamed trad on wolf wall 
Walk the Line 
Welcome to Steele 
Wendy's Finger Crack 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tommy Taylor and Graham Wilson
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: Steibs on Dec 13, 2012
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Mountaineer up ledges covered in prickers to a dihedral crack. Understand the name now? Stem up to a large hanging flake. Move left under the flake and then climb its left side. Listen closely, there may be an animal (bird? squirrel? otter?) crying at you from within. Belay at the top of the flake or continue if you've extended wisely. Climb up on big holds, avoiding the prickers sprouting from the crack, until you've pulled yourself left onto a cramped ledge underneath the large roof. Move left across the chasm to another larger ledge with an old piton. You can lay down on this one and think about life. Place pro in the roof crack, stand up, and pull roof (exciting!) to continue to the top. Originally rated 5.6 according the DCA. Sling a tree, bring your partner up and descend via the 3rd/4th class gully by the Meathooks Wall. It's an easy one rope rap and a good end to an adventure.


Sting is the big, deep dihedral climbers right of the Meathooks and Memory Wall and before the Ampitheatre. The start is several feet right of where the regular trail and the Meathooks Wall trail converge.


Gardening shears and double ropes would be nice. If not, judicious use of long runners down low will save you from a world of drag above. You could use a #4 Camalot on the upper roof. Be careful not to kick it out as you pull the roof! Otherwise, standard rack.

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By Matthew Bishop
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Need a #4 for the roof - you can place a sketchy number 3 if its all you've got. Otherwise there is a variety nut placements just under the roof. Bring a lot of runners!!!, and be prepared to get personal with the name of the route (you will understand). The gully decent is over by Rockwa - it's quite a pain. Noticed some anchors to the left (perspective: facing away from the wall). Would trail a second rope next time and rap off those anchors.