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Sting  

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tommy Taylor and Graham Wilson
Page Views: 182
Submitted By: Steibs on Dec 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Mountaineer up ledges covered in prickers to a dihedral crack. Understand the name now? Stem up to a large hanging flake. Move left under the flake and then climb its left side. Listen closely, there may be an animal (bird? squirrel? otter?) crying at you from within. Belay at the top of the flake or continue if you've extended wisely. Climb up on big holds, avoiding the prickers sprouting from the crack, until you've pulled yourself left onto a cramped ledge underneath the large roof. Move left across the chasm to another larger ledge with an old piton. You can lay down on this one and think about life. Place pro in the roof crack, stand up, and pull roof (exciting!) to continue to the top. Originally rated 5.6 according the DCA. Sling a tree, bring your partner up and descend via the 3rd/4th class gully by the Meathooks Wall. It's an easy one rope rap and a good end to an adventure.

Location 

Sting is the big, deep dihedral climbers right of the Meathooks and Memory Wall and before the Ampitheatre. The start is several feet right of where the regular trail and the Meathooks Wall trail converge.

Protection 

Gardening shears and double ropes would be nice. If not, judicious use of long runners down low will save you from a world of drag above. You could use a #4 Camalot on the upper roof. Be careful not to kick it out as you pull the roof! Otherwise, standard rack.


Comments on Sting Add Comment
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By Matthew Bishop
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Need a #4 for the roof - you can place a sketchy number 3 if its all you've got. Otherwise there is a variety nut placements just under the roof. Bring a lot of runners!!!, and be prepared to get personal with the name of the route (you will understand). The gully decent is over by Rockwa - it's quite a pain. Noticed some anchors to the left (perspective: facing away from the wall). Would trail a second rope next time and rap off those anchors.
By Lyle Dean
Dec 20, 2014

In about 1974 Todd Gregory named the route The Sting because of a wasp or yellow jackets nest towards the top. I don't remember Tommy indicating they had completed the route. It is quite possible Tommy and Graham attempted this route and left some old pins. It would be worth taking a pair of garden shears up to the belay under the roof and doing some serious pruning. All of the routes starting in the Sting Dihedral would qualify as classics if you didn't have to fight the vegetation.
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