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 ADVANCED
e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdie Party T 
Co-op T 
Coexistence T 
Credibility Gap T 
Dangler, The T 
Dry Martini T 
Fall to Grace T 
Fly Again T 
Graveyard Shift T 
Higher Stannard T 
Interstice T 
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 
Land's End (Direct) T 
Laughing Man T 
Men At Arms T 
MF T 
Mother's Day Party T 
Overhanging Layback T 
Scene of the Climb T 
Something Boring T 
Something Interesting T 
Star Action T 
Still Crazy After All These Years T 
Tequila Mockingbird T 
Three Pines T 
Tough Shift T 
Try Again T 
Welcome to the Gunks T 

Still Crazy After All These Years 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: S. Angelini, A. Rubin, A. Juncusa
Page Views: 1,030
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Lucander on Still Crazy After All These Years

Description 

Several 5.8/5.9 sections lead to a short, tricky crux. The protection is all there.

Start ten feet right of Something Interesting. Climb, wandering right and left, for 40 feet or so to a short, orange face; at that point you will more or less at the same level as the crux bulge of Something Interesting. Move up into a short, right-facing corner (crux), then go straight up to finish on Something Interesting.

You won't be able to climb this independently of climbers on Something Interesting - you'll have to figure out how to interleave with them, or wait until both routes are free.


Location 

McCarthy Wall, ten feet right of Something Interesting, at a very small, left-facing corner that begins at the ground.


Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.



Comments on Still Crazy After All These Years Add Comment
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By David Stowe
Jun 2, 2010

Excellent route but I would be careful about saying the protection is all there. There is some pretty runout climbing down low on poor gear. The climbing builds and the runout is on 5.7 or 5.8 climbing, but this not a route for a new 5.10 leader. The crux is very well protected with excellent moves. Someone looking for an entry level 5.10 lead will be in for a rude awakening on this climb.

By akline
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

i agree with david. small run-outs down low on so-so gear, and then you do a long run-out through the crux, but the gear you are climbing above at this point is bomber, just long fall potential. heads-up for sure

By David Stowe
Sep 15, 2011

Akline, you can actually get a really good brassie just after the crux that pretty much eliminates any runout there. That being said the lower runouts are unavoidable.

By matt matera
Nov 30, 2011

I disagree here. While this is a PG climb, the PG part is above the crux. You can place a nut after the crux but it is strenuous to place. On the bottom, you have to be creative with gear and nuts, but each time I climb this, I am placing good gear every 5 - 10 feet, even at the bottom. And you can climb this while avoiding something interesting by climbing to the right to the higher stannard bolt anchors.