Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Angel Food Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beheaded Burro T 
Eigerwand T 
Gobies for Gumbies T 
Group Therapy T 
Healy's Haunted House T 
Killin' Time T 
Lean Lady T 
On the prowl T 
Purblind Pillar T 
Rebel Within T 
Sandy Hole T 
Stilgar's Wild Ride T 
Tele-vision T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Unsorted Routes:

Stilgar's Wild Ride 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1974 Joe Herbst & Bob Healy
Page Views: 2,114
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tamara negotiating the roof crux

Description 

Start up the first pitch of Tunnel Vision. Go up to the ledge below the first chimney. At this point, Tunnel Vision bears to the left, but Stilgar goes to the right, climbing a steep face and cracks past a belay/rap station about 40 feet up. Climb the deep chimney slot above, belaying when convenient. Continue up the chimney, which is not hard, but has limited protection opportunities. At the top of the chimney, where the crack narrows, exit to the left (which is easier than it looks) and belay. The next pitch goes up easy rock, then traverses left to belay in the alcove at the base of the tunnel on Tunnel Vision. Instead of spelunking, go up the right-facing dihedral system straight above, being careful to avoid rope drag. Continue up the crack system, with one or two thin spots, to the top of the wall.


Protection 

Ordinary rack



Photos of Stilgar's Wild Ride Slideshow Add Photo
Angel Food Wall routes
BETA PHOTO: Angel Food Wall routes
Looking down at the second belay position from near the start of pitch 3.  Plenty of chimney lies above...
Looking down at the second belay position from nea...
Pitch 5 starts in the alcove at the base of the the Tunnel Vision tunnel.  Rope drag can be an issue in the scalloped dihedral.
Pitch 5 starts in the alcove at the base of the th...
Mark finishing the 1st pitch of Stilgars. Gotta love all the flakes and convoluted edges!
Mark finishing the 1st pitch of Stilgars. Gotta lo...
Comments on Stilgar's Wild Ride Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 18, 2005

It seems like the Angel Food Wall is getting "star inflation." Tunnel Vision and Group Therapy are good routes - but 3-star classics? Stilgar is probably the best of the three...

By Pete Bresciani
May 29, 2009

Sebastien Jean and I did Stilgar's on Memorial Day 2009. Starting at 2pm we were in the shade the whole day. We used a 70m rope and did 4 pitches as follows. I don't know the exact pitch lengths so tried to describe the belays as best I could.

Pitch 1: Start up Tunnel Vision passing the first belay slings. Soon you'll see the next 3' wide Tunnel Vision chimney. To the right of it will be a 12' high vertical crack. Take this (5.8-) and belay on top of it from a bunch of slings wrapped around a big boulder with a giant quick link. This is a nice ledge. 180'

Pitch 2: Enter Stilgar's Chasm. You'll be in this a while. Pretty easy and secure feeling. When it does open up, above you'll see the chasm eventually closing down to fist size. Here you have two options, continue straight up the flaring chimney or take a little crack on the left wall in white rock (which we did at 5.8). Not far from the top of this you'll be able to make a little traverse back right to where the chasm chokes down. Continue up 10-12 more feet and step left onto another nice ledge. There will be a good horizontal crack (2"-2.5") and a nice vertical crack to belay from. 220'

Pitch 3: Head up a bit surmounting the little bulge on big holds (5.4) and a ways off left you'll see the entrance to the tunnel on Tunnel Vision. It's the 4'-5' wide cave looking thing. Make your way over to this (5.2). We didn't stop here (although you could) but instead headed straight up from the cave ledge aiming for the edges of the scallops to eliminate rope drag. I don't think you have to go deep inside the scallops. There are plenty of face and footholds to make it on the outside (a couple of 5.8 moves here and there with rests in between). After 3 scallops you'll pull over onto another big ledge. Belay here. 220' (There is also a mini tunnel here that it seems people have taken to rejoin Tunnel Vision!)

Pitch 4: Head up to the roof above you and turn this last scallop (Tamara's picture elsewhere here) and then continue up the corner passing a little bulge in white rock (5.8) and eventually surmounting another little bulge (5.8-) nearer the top on big jugs. One more scrambly little wall (5.3) and you are on the top! 210'

This was an enjoyable outing with a few very short 5.8 segments. A real nice day and a great alternative to waiting in line on Tunnel Vision.

By NickinCO
From: colorado
Mar 31, 2011

Did part of this yesterday. We did the 5.9 variation start and followed stilgar's up until the start of the tunnel pitch of tunnel vision. From there it looked like we had a couple options none that good- traverse back out right to the highly featured but probably poorly protected face for about 30' and swing back left into the right facing corner, or go just into the "tunnel" and come out right about 20' up and continue up the north facing corner on the rest of the route.

We weren't that impressed with the first couple pitches so we opted to finish up tunnel vision. Maybe the upper pitches get better?

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 1, 2011

Nick- you actually go straight up into the corner from the start of the tunnel- it looks impossible, but it goes at 5.8- the pitches above are sustained and semi-serious, but good fun. I actually think its a better route overall than tunnel, but much more run out and serious- and probably kind of 5.9ish. Be on it and ready to rock climb!

By Arch Richardson
Apr 5, 2011

We had a 70 m rope but ended up doing 6 pitches because of terminal rope drag. The rope tends to pull into corners and jam in several locations. Something to watch out for. Otherwise an excellent route.

By Zappatista
Aug 21, 2011

I enjoyed the route but thought it was a little more serious than Tunnel. A fun challenge, every pitch was interesting. Worthwhile for locals or visitors very solid at the grade looking for an old-school experience. Larger gear might help keep some of the longest runouts more reasonable-heady either way.

By Aaron S
May 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I was surprised at how good this climb is, first half is better than Tunnel Vision. Heading up from the tunnel belay is a little spicy and there is some poor rock in that section but things pick up again after that.

As Arch said, watch out for your rope getting pinched.