||Ice, 1 pitch, 60', Grade II
|Consensus: ||WI5+ [details]|
|FA: ||Marc Beverly - first solo (FA - not recorded)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||604|
|Submitted By: ||Marc Beverly on Dec 1, 2007|
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Usual condition of this climb, but a good mind#&%@
The crux is in your head. When you see this thing, you'll vacillate whether you'll even bother risking walking out on the river to get to the thin dagger. I've only seen it form a full column once, and wished I would have climbed it then. Instead, I went back the following year when it wasn't touching down and nearly puked when I got to the top. The bottom section broke free after I got up - Sheesh.
I've asked around for many years and have not found anyone who has climbed it (since about 1996) with or without gear. Since we have a place in Pagosa and have climbed in the area for years, and none of the guide books or "locals" (even at the Switchback when it was in existence) knew of anyone who had climbed it, I went ahead and on-sight free soloed it and gave it the name that seemed fitting. The solo name will stay until someone can validate a prior solo - sorry, but I'm tired of "unnamed" or "unknown" being the name of a route.
On another note, this place could produce some really cool mixed climbs. If I had the time, I'd put 'em up. There's a pretty good line that could make Stiletto "go" as a mixed climb, and there's other potential if some mild farming shenanigans went on.
Walk off the top back to the parking lot and have a shot of tequila to sooth the soul.
Football pads and a crash pad that floats. I'm not sure that screws would be a good idea if it's brittle. The canyon is typically VERY cold (< -5 C) which makes for dainty conditions for any dagger. The top is shaded, so the risk of sun hit is low once it warms up later in the season, but it tends to fall by then.
BETA PHOTO: The possibilities (could be a mini Vail)....
By Jesse Morehouse
Dec 10, 2007
rating: WI5+ R
Sorry, bro, but it has been climbed for years and is locally known as the Box Canyon Ice Climb or some such amongst the anemic, local, ice climbing community. Your name is an improvement and pretty fitting though. It never seems to really form up super well and is usually broken, chandeliered, etc. Pretty fun pitch for one so short.
Nov 26, 2011
Ditto w/ Jesse.