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Clipboard, The 
Stigmata 

Stigmata 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1997
Page Views: 1,421
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Jan 1, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Carol Kotchek at the bolt near the top of Stigmata...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the diagonal finger crack on the right side of The Clipboard. The crack itself gobbles small wires and RPs, and there is a single bolt up high. The shameless can clip the first two bolts on the route to the left to get started.


Protection 

1 bolt and gear to a 2-bolt anchor.



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Stigmata
BETA PHOTO: Stigmata
Low on the route.
Low on the route.
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By shad O'Neel
Jul 23, 2003

super fun moves, but pretty short. not too hard for a 5.10

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 14, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Why the bolt? It's easy up there, and there's good gear at your knees as you start the final, relatively easy (7 or 8) wide crack.

By willem
Aug 5, 2004

i know the shameless can clip the bolts. but how about the just plain chicken? are they allowed to?

By Richard Rossiter
Sep 28, 2004

OK. OK. About the solitary bolt... If you look at the photo (above) you will see that the big flake that forms the right side of the final crack is detached. I decided to place a bolt on the left wall in case the flake ever came loose. At least you will still be attached to the wall, and if your belayer becomes road kill, you can still get down safely.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 28, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I really wish this wall had been tall and skinny instead of short and fat. This is the third route on the wall, and the third route on great rock with great moves. It's also the third route to be only about a third of a route long: about 12 meters... The gear- do you like stoppers or TCU's? A single rack of either + a quickdraw will get you up the route cleanly.

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 28, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Eats small Aliens...

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 23, 2005

Young Doug..Isn't the name of this route "The Stigma" ? This is a very fine piece of granite..this route, it's neighbors, and all of those on the west are really a lot of fun! A good day is to bag all of the lines on this square buttress. Rossiter has a knack for finding some great routes.

By Brenda Leach
Sep 29, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Fun route. Too bad it's not a little longer. I led it today and felt like it was no harder than a 5.9-, max. I suppose if you try to keep both your hands and feet in the crack, that'd make it harder (much). But, there's too many options for your feet on the face. Well worth doing, though.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2007

Small wires and Aliens. Fun route with good gear. Just wish it was longer.

CL