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Coal Pit Buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

Stifflers Stiffy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Starr, Tyler Phillips, Luke Douglas 06'
New Route: Yes
Season: any but winter
Page Views: 1,955
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 7, 2006
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The 3rd pitch var. to Stifflers Mom, Try to refrain from climbing the nice flake on the 3rd pitch of Stifflers and shuffle out left. The bolt line is obvious.

Continue up Stifflers, or descend via, 3 single rope raps to the ground.


Protection 

Draws, #1 camalot or .75 camalot, small stoppers for the top.


Location 

Begin on Stifflers Mom then break off left at pitch three. See topo



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By Ty Gregory
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 16, 2009

This pitch is awesome, I think more people should try it because it is a tad slippery due to the ancient lichen. Awfully balancy.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 31, 2010

Stunning and unique variation. Different from many LCC routes. A worthy outing.

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Great variation. Unfortunately, it happens to be a variation to the best pitch of Stiffler's, but, fortunately, it's a nice harder pitch with varied climbing - slab moves, balancy stuff, a lieback section, face climbing, and a thin finger crack.

I found a .75 BD and a red TCU to be handy in the middle, and micro cams up top.