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Coal Pit Buttress
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Angering The Angered T 
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House of Cards T 
King Cobra Corner T 
Misunderstood T 
One Time at Band Camp S 
Organization for the Organized T 
Precious Lost T 
Refugees From Reality T 
Shizznit T 
Stick Man S 
Stiffler's Mom T 
Stifflers Stiffy T 
Stuck a Flute in My S 
Sumatra T 
Tony's Route T 
Unsorted Routes:

Stiffler's Mom 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, 1300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips, Robbie Colbert, Luke Douglas 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 17,338
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 1, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Topo
Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route was put up in traditional style, from the ground up. It lies about 300 yards east of Pentapitch and about 75 yards to the west of Nanooks of the North. The start has 2 options.

P1: Climb grassy crack to fixed pin in flake, climb up the flake into left facing dihedral passing a small pine, from top of the dihedral traverse left to stance and belay. 5.8-

Alternate 1st pitch: climb up steep slab sticking to whatever you can past 2 bolts, from there climb THE beautiful arete to chains: 3 bolts, 5 in total on pitch. (Variation is called 'One Time At Band Camp' 5.11+)

P2: Climb up from belay using friction passing one bolt. From here a little dirt scrambling will bring you to some low angle climbing to a finger crack that leads to a pine tree. More dihedral climbing that has lots of face holds brings you to a semi-hanging belay w/ 2 bolts. 5.7

P3: The juice. Climb up awesome flakes going up over a roof to a great stance. Quality cracks up the face lead to a corner. From the top of the corner traverse out left to the arete passing 2 bolts. A wild step over brings up around the corner to a small stopper crack, crank one or two more moves to a great ledge and belay. 5.8+

P4: From the belay climb up using cracks. Keep cruising low angle cracks to a slightly harder finish to the big ledge and belay behind small trees on a 2 bolt anchor. 5.7

P5: From anchor climb left facing dihedral and keep cruising right over the slab passing one bolt. From the end of the traverse climb a cool flake to more bolts. Pinch, scum, balance your way up this shallow corner to a sequential exit. A fun slab traverse brings you to a really cool ledge w/ a big pine tree (American Pie Ledge) 5.10+

P6: From anchor look up and to the left you'll see a bolt. Climb up this and grope for the best crimp over the lip, keep searching for the good hold as you move up and get established in the left facing corner. Make a hard move getting established in the corner and enjoy the fun cracks that follow. At the top of the crack is a tightly bolted slab leading to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11a

P7: Climb up into the undercling and traverse left. Near the end of the traverse launch straight up into the dihedral using fun features. At the top of the dihedral trend to the right passing 2 bolts to a mantle and the belay. 5.9

If you decide to climb past the 7th pitch ( which ends the 3 star rating) bring a 70m rope or 2 50m ropes for the raps. From the 7th pitch belay look up and note the dead pine tree about 110' up, this will be where your rap station is to re-gain the Stifflers Mom raps. The climbing on the upper half is full on adventure with some quality cracks near the "summit". Have fun.


Protection 

Set of cams to 3" and small set of nuts. 13 quickdraws, and long slings helpful.



Photos of Stiffler's Mom Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up the first pitch (It's a bit scruffy!)
Looking up the first pitch (It's a bit scruffy!)
Maura on pitch 7 of Stifflers Mom.
Maura on pitch 7 of Stifflers Mom.
Wyatt completes cool slab moves.
Wyatt completes cool slab moves.
Pitch 2 and first few moves of Pitch 3, from the belay. The black watermark is just left of the cruxy roof move on Pitch 3. Standing at the top of the flake, I was able to get my left foot out on the watermark and my right hand in the crimpy sidepull crack, then stand up tall and grab a white slightly rectangular jug on the roof with my left hand. Traversing right and over the roof from there is straightforward, although when we did this climb the rock was a little wet and really slick.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 and first few moves of Pitch 3, from the b...
The best move on the best pitch <br />Photo of: some guy
The best move on the best pitch
Photo of: some guy
All grins on P7 traverse... unfortunately we ran the traverse a little long and ended up in choss city.  Loved the traverse though!
All grins on P7 traverse... unfortunately we ran t...
Maura on the 5th pitch of Stifflers Mom.
Maura on the 5th pitch of Stifflers Mom.
Pitch 4. Fun (dirty) 5.6 cruiser crack all the way to the belay.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4. Fun (dirty) 5.6 cruiser crack all the way...
Good times on P2.
Good times on P2.
Nick Layton making the move
Nick Layton making the move
Comments on Stiffler's Mom Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 20, 2014
By Louis Arevalo
May 30, 2005

Excellent work! I was smiling the whole way. I found that pitch 3 was the real onsight crux with pitch 5 and 6 perhaps as difficult, but more visible. Pitch 5 is the money pitch. Arete pinching, toe hooking/scumming, smearing and exciting clipping, the rock is immaculate!

We climbed through pitch 7 and used a 70 meter to rap the route. It seems that rapping pitch 5 we used almost the entire length.

Easy to follow and super fun!

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 26, 2005

Sick! Sick! Sick! CLIMB!! Get on this more than once!! Come with some skills and a good leader head. My compliments to the chef.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 8, 2005

Fun route, nice work boys. Three stars? I dunno about that one, or "best long route in LCC" either, but fun non the less. Thanks for putting it up!

By tenesmus
May 11, 2006

3-stars for the 5th pitch alone. Watch out for that jug on the 4th pitch. Heavier climbers (like me) will feel it wiggle as you weight it so be sure you throw in the obvious tcu just below.

Thank you Tyler. Must have spent some serious cash and time on this route.

By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
May 21, 2006

Nice Route and Vision. Pitch 3 was awesome and so was the crux roof on pitch 6. A key jug to clip the 2nd bolt at the crux roof felt like it was flexing (pull gently); I'm an average weight climber - maybe my mind was just tricking me. I felt pitch 5 was the most difficult "onsight" pitch.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 2, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route

By Luke Douglas
Jun 5, 2006

I did not know that we could move bolts to suit our own purposes, place bolts next to natural protection, and place bolts on someone else's climb. Did you even think to contact us as you were hanging from our anchors? No coment as to all your "hard work". For F.A.'s such as yourselves to show such a lack of respect and ethics is saddening.
Good Luck

By Nathan Fisher
Jun 23, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I am quoting TP off of utahclimbers.com for a better beta than was originally posted.

Start on the same slab as One Time At Band Camp, there is a seam/splitter running up the right side, pass a fixed pin ( best piece on lower part of pitch) then go into a thin flake, that turns a corner passing a tree onto a ledge 5.8-.

2nd pitch climbs above belay to a bolt, continue up through short 4th class to a beautiful .5" finger splitter (ends at pine growing out of crack) on a slab then up corner to belay stance/ anchors 5.8-.

3rd pitch climbs BEAUTIFUL flakes to a fun roof, from the roof, clip a bolt and climb more ..5" slab cracks to 2 bolts on the left arete (super bouldery) 5.10+.

4th pitch. From awesome belay ledge climb dirt filled crack to more cleaner cracks to nice ledge 5.7.

5th pitch ( my fav.) Climb short left facing dihedral to slab, clip a bolt move right, climb up sweet flake to more bolts that follow a shallow left facing dihedral ( 4 bolts), from top of the dihedral get the sequence right and traverses dead left past three bolts to the stellar American Pie Ledge, 5.10+.

6th Pitch. Climb roof passing three bolts and a small TCU placement, then follow dihedral up, passing a fixed pin to some sweet hands, after the crack, slab climb past 4 closely spaced bolts to belay/ anchor 5.11a.

Pitch 7. Climb obvious undercling up and left to dihedral, launch up dihedral ( super fun) to clip a bolt and traverse right along ramp clipping another bolt, mantle to chains. This is where the 3 star climbing ends.

Pitch 8 climb up to roof passing it on the left side, clip a hard to see fixed pin and pull into the alcove, natural belay, 5.7 rotten.

Pitch 9, from alcove climb up and right, the height of the route becomes apparent as the canyon road to the mouth and beyond can bee seen, stretch the rope and find a natural belay ( not hard super easy ground w/ trees). 5.6+.

From here scramble up towards "summit", there is a major gully splitting the upper face climb/hike up this until more technical climbing appears. There are a few variations here, but the best one climbs up hand cracks on the left hand side, turn formation on the left via finger traverse that is memorable, continue up 5th class to last tech. obstacle and surmount the "summit" on the left. 5.8 for last section w/ lots of 5th class, about 400 feet. From the Pentapitch "summit" take in the awesome views of upper Coalpit and of SLC.

Descend by walking east then wrap around north and down towards Stiffler's Mom. From the top of the 7th pitch look up, there is a large dead tree, next to this tree is the rap anchors to rap the route. Currently you need a 70m rope or 2 50m to rap the entire route, rap the route.

The route was put in ground up.

By Nathan Fisher
Jun 23, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route, with so many styles of climbing. I got the two plum pitches, thanks Mark. It's amazing that this line stayed unplucked until now.

By tenesmus
Jul 6, 2006

Tim wrote,""Sorry guy, but I did move one of your bolts that my partner and I felt was totally off. I have never changed a route before - but - had a lot of work into that pitch and wanted to see it right.""

I'm appalled by the self-righteousness of this statement. Its really amazing that someone would say this without even trying to contact the FA. Is one thing to disagree but completely different to act first.

By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 12, 2006

yeah...big boo boo to even think about moving someone else's bolt much less just go and do it...without even checking with folks first!

while we are here...who got to superslabs before me?...I did plenty of reconnaisance in the past and then finally went up there to begin mapping the route in preparation...low and behold...I went up there early summer...explored...liked it...came back a bit later...and there are brand new shiny bolts there! in fact...there is a four pitch, mostly bolted route there! oh well...I missed it...

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 14, 2006

"In fact I challenge these REAL climbers who put up Stifflers, to hold the secrets they have to their tight circle. To keep closed mouth of their developments (I know they are working on some to date). To hell with all these bickering idiots that need other people to help them "discover" other areas. Let those people do laps on the same routes. Its easy to critize, its easy to argue, its not as easy to see through open eyes."

But Troy A., What about those of us who just keep our mouth shut and opinions to ourselves and climb on?? I still want to be in the know on the new stuff going up around here, but unfortunatly I'm not in these guy's "tight circle" (though I want to be...).

Thanks a lot to the F***-heads who think it's okay to alter other peoples work to cater their own needs!!!

By jonathan knight
Aug 18, 2006

Fun route with an emphasis on fun. There are tons of routes that can scare your pants off in LCC, but this ain't one of them. Nice work effort, too. Looking around the buttress and especially at the upper pitches, I got the idea of what it was like before. I liked the choice of line, but I didn't clip all the bolts. I had too much gear and not enough quickdraws and slings.

I only noticed a couple of bare studs sticking out when I took the time to search around. I've seen worse messes. Too many variations would make it more confusing, although it would be a fun route to have 50m double ropes for exploring different variations and for ease of descent.

Tony, SLC has never been overtly ethical since I've been around. There are lots of different styles on the granite in LCC. I think you've made your point, so let the FA crew figure it out.

By Gary Olsen
Aug 19, 2006

Tony, James is right. Hanging off a hook or sling or whatever aint the same as rapp bolting, not by a long shot. Guess Mr. Bachar should have just rapp bolted that thing in Tuolumne he did with Mr. Yerian.

Sounds like Tim and party messed up.

By d.reed
Aug 23, 2006

Been climbing since 1970.In regards to bolting and new routes,Sounds like the wasatch climbing community, (unfortunately)may have to consider, some sorta group, or ????? that could review,routes and proposed bolting, prior to the deed.Face it, there will be routes spaced just inches apart at some point.Route finding will easy " Just count over so many bolted lines or use a tape measure, to find the start of the climb you have selected.Kinda like an outside gym.
CLIMB WITH STYLE : CHEERS!!!!

By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Aug 24, 2006

Umm... I climbed the first three pitches of Stiffler's today. And I noticed that most of the bolts on the first two pitches are removed... Just FYI for anybody headed up there.

By ullr
Aug 28, 2006

Did this route last year, with the first pitch variation. Just came back yesterday to do it and was suprised to find the empty holes on the first pitch/variation.

Anyway, still a fun route. Thanks for all the effort Tyler and crew.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 13, 2007

Only did the first 5 pitches, but I've got to say, some of those slabs are down right sweet. And a few good cracks thrown in between. Though bring your A game for the slabs. Also bring you broom. I don't know if it just early in the season or what.. Some down right good climbing for sure! I'll be back for the upper pitches.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 14, 2007

Also, after the 4th pitch you really should have a 70m or two ropes with you for the rappel. You come up to short.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2007

Did the route 5/19/07. Most of the climb was very cool. The third pitch is as good as any in LCC. Unfortunately, my partner who led the third pitch (linking 2 and 3) decided to try the "5.8" crack to the right of the bolts. We ended up climbing the dirt clogged thingy. YUCK! The bolted way is much better and not that hard (under 5.10). The direct bolted line on the first fully bolted pitch was really cool until after the roof. couldn't quite figure out how to do it. Ended up laybacking the arete feature which felt really insecure (which is too bad considering that there is a way easier alternative just to the right. I won't bolt it but if the small corner just to the right were bolted it is only about 5.8/9!!! Maybe a single FP would do the trick.) The American Pie ledge is really cool (kicked back for a while there). The crux pitch had a really cool sequence but both of us agreed that the bolt would've been better further right and a bit higher. If you blew the moves with some slack out you will smack the slab below! LOOK OUT ANKLES! All in all though it was cool how every 10-20 feet you had something totoally different to work out. Fun day.

By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 22, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The Crux pitch has definitely gone up a notch since the flexing jug is no more. Without this crucial hold it's definitely harder to pull over the roof on pitch six. Good luck on pulling this move now, it is possible, but significantly harder.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 23, 2007

Crisokid must have some sic slab skills if he thinks the 3rd pitch slab is under 5.10...

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 23, 2007

I can't help but wonder if the flexing jug made the bolt placement on the crux better. Yes, if you are trying a move between the two bolts and blow it, you could hit the slab or ledge below. We actually placed a TCU in the crack instead of clipping the bolt and felt totally fine. And there is a pretty moderate corner to the right of the bolted direct line (pitch 5). You would move a few feet to the right instead of turning the roof.

By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Jun 21, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Stiffler's Mom, "Like a good wine, just gets better with age".

The jug is missing on pitch 6, but it really hasn't made the climbing any harder. It in fact provides a better(lower)foot hold and may make it a little easier. My partner says "in the gunks that pitch would be 5.9". What a dick.

The bolts are fine on pitch 6, no need to change anything.

By Kristofer
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The first 6 pitches are amazing. We climbed up the 7th and 8th pitch and did not enjoy it. NOTE: The 5.9 traverse on pitch 7 goes well past the gully which is unclear on the hand drawn map. I would advise just doing the first 6 pitches. We ran into numerous bees and wasps above this pitch. Not only were there a lot of bees and wasps but they followed us everywhere.

It is also not a fun rappel from the anchors at the end of pitch 7. Rappelling from pitch 7's anchors leads you down a different route. NOTE: Using a 70m rope to rappel from the 7th pitch anchors is not safe since the next set of anchors below is a body length below the end of the rope. The other option if you have time is to climb the 5.9 traverse back to the anchors at the end of the 6th pitch.

I give 4 quality and magnificent stars for the 1st 6 pitches. This should be the end of the route as described.

By Ben Folsom
Aug 18, 2008

Maura and I climbed this route the other day. (To the top of pitch 7). I had done it before a while ago, but couldn't remember much of it. (except that there were 3 Bens on a ledge). We both thought it was great, and as Jonathan said, it is nice to go do a route in LCC and be able to sew it up. I'm sure it took a lot of work to equip, and I thought the FA's did a great job of it, and of linking together such good climbing on something that doesn't look that good from the ground.
Maura and I ran together pitches 1-2, and 3-4. So we climbed to the top of pitch 7 in 5 pitches which was a good way to do it. I didn't have any info on the route either so we brought two ropes for the rappels. After getting my rope stuck trying to rap from the top of 7 to the top of 5, and having to re-lead and downclimb the 5.11a bulge section, we decided it best to just rap with 1 70m from there down. So I believe the best way is to just bring 1, 70 meter and rap it how it is set up.
Anyway, nice work guys on the FA, and dealing with all the shit from others since then. Too bad someone deleted all their posts, I'm curious as to the comments they had made.
Also for Kristofer. I think you may have traversed a bit far on pitch 7. I went out that nice steep corner going up and left from the belay, then when that feature starts going straight left and not angling anymore, I climbed straight up and a bit right passing two bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. From there the rappel took us right back down the route. I would recommend pitch 7, it is nice.

By notmyname
From: Stony Brook, NY
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route was a fun quick little romp with some really short but fun and well protected cruxes. Like most modern multipitch routes squeezed in for climbing sake, not for the actual aesthetics of the line, it goes really really quick. There's no reason whatsoever to go beyond the last bolted station, I'd choose a different way up if I wanted a summit adventure. Kudos to the hard work for putting it up, it's a fun ride for sure. A couple pitches are very overbolted which is my only complaint, but since it's not a "pure line" to begin with, only those pre-occupied with ethics would actually care. As for it being a the "best long route in the wasatch"...I'm new here so I sure hope this isn't the case! My partner and I were chuckling at the enthusiasm for the FA party on not only the hype, but also the name of the route and features. American Pie was kinda funny, but certainly not timeless. I hope this was named when the movie was popular and current, otherwise somebody likes that movie a wee bit too much.
Sincerely,
The peanut gallery.
Good times.

By Jason Wiggins
From: Draper, UT
Aug 14, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route. The arcing slab pitch (5 or 3 if linking pitches) is one of my favorite pitches in the canyon.

I would highly recommend moving the belay to the base of the crux pitch as the standard anchors are near horizontal to the first bolt and far enough away to make ledging out very likely if you blew the crux move. There is a large tree and some crack so a trad anchor on the ledge below the roof is simple.

Not that it matters one way or the other but I would throw in a vote for .10+** for the route w.r.t. other climbs in the canyon. Thanks for the good work FA party!

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great climb. With a 70m, P1 and P2 can be easily combined, and the same goes for P3 and P4. Alternatively, P4 and "Stuck a Flute in My" can be combined without rope drag. P6 is awesome; I would not move any bolts.

By flyk
Aug 31, 2010

Don't know why I've avoided this climb, it was awesome!

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I agree with jason wiggins in that i do not feel this route to be 5.11 at all. a few sections of great slab climbing with one forgetable sporty roof that is a one move wonder. 5.10c low commitment long climb which I think is kind of rare around these parts.

A caveat is that this route is chuck full of sweet flakes and when those run out you have some sick slabbin to do. Does anyone know what the hard curb/slab pitch goes at? I only have 'dark of the moon/prep phrase' to compare it to as my hardest slab leads, and I onsighted this so it can't be as hard as those two as i fell a few times on each.

By Jim D
Jul 28, 2011

This is a good route, not a spectacular one. The first four pitches are pretty dirty for a 7 year old route. They could use quite a bit of gardening too. The fourth pitch is a complete dud. The first and second are OK, but nothing special. The rest of the pitches are what make the route. Some routes in the Wasatch are very sustained. This isn't one of them. With the exception of the fifth pitch, the route is very "cruxy" with long sections of cruising interspersed with a few hard moves.

The third pitch is spectacular. I wouldn't blame anyone for climbing to the top of the third and bailing. I thought it was far and away the best pitch. The flakes are awesome, the reach to the roof dicey, and solving the arete is mentally demanding.

The fifth pitch is the hardest in my opinion. That dihedral is desperate. I followed the pitch, and was surprised I didn't fall until blowing the exit sequence and popping off. I didn't even think that was the hardest part.

The sixth pitch is cool, but very different from the rest of the route. Instead of desperate face climbing, it becomes pretty burly. Hopefully I can redpoint it the next time I try it, because I certainly didn't flash it today. Actually, there is some thin face on this pitch too, for 15 feet above the roof. Transitioning from cranking on steep jugs to smearing on the face accounted for at least one of my falls.

Don't take a 50 meter on this route. You can climb each pitch on it, but it would be a pain to rap with it. A 60 meter is fine for rappelling, at least from the top of 6 where we bailed. It would, however, be nice if someone could donate two 5 foot sections of chain for the anchors on top of 5. The downclimb at the end of that rappel is a little spicy, especially if that little tree you can stem off of dies.

Overall, this route is fun, very well-protected, and has zero commitment. It is a great place for a 5.10 leader to get on some hard 5.10/easy 5.11. I'll climb it again.

P.S. What "jug" is missing on pitch 6? I assumed the "great hold" is the one to the right of the triangle. Did there use to be another one?

By user id
Jul 28, 2011

What did you say?
I lost you after blah, blah, blah...

And the 5th pitch is the hardest?
Sounds to me like you can't climb.

All the best,

<3 Tom-

By Fett
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Ha! 5 foot chain, how about bring a 70m rope instead.

By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Jul 30, 2011

I love it when somebody who did NOT get the first ascent of a route comments on what should have been done. Pretty easy when "hindsight is 20/20." I have climbed many routes while I pondered "what the f#@$" on the placement of the bolts or anchors. However, I only intimately understood some of the first ascentionists actions after I put up a route or two.
I sincerely distain those that comment that first ascentionist(s) should have put more chains, bolts, or cleaned some chunk of rock. Unbeknownst to many, new routes cost money. More cash than that of gas, new REI gear to climb it, and the internet account to brag about it.
We (the first ascentionists) must shell out that doe to equip the route.

I'm tired of people critzing new routes. If you don't like them, walk away and shut the hell up! Go back to the gym and take your new MEET-UP girls to the Slips.

TDA

ps. Jim D: if you need an address in which you can send that chain send me an email. I can also direct you to the proper place in which to send hangers, bolts, and drill bits.

By ldsclimber
From: Queen Creek AZ
Jul 31, 2011

I was all smiles till I popped off trying to clip the last bolt (twice!) on the mini dihedhal. I could have done without that long fall. Kudos to the FA party!

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Aug 3, 2011

Fun climb worth doing once. Pitch 3 and 5 are the good ones, with both having some zest for sure. Pitch 5 felt way harder then the 11a roof on pitch 6. A fat undercling to 2 bomber jugs didn't make it seem 11a, but the thin arete pinches sans feet on pitch 5 were quite exhillarating. Well protected. Rap with 1 70m was easy.

By Annie Naylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 19, 2011

We climbed pitches 1-4 the day after a rainstorm. It looks like a lot of work has gone into getting this route clean as there are grasses and shrubs all throughout the cracks. P2 was fun climbing past the big tree growing out of the crack and through a chimney move behind the bulge right below the belay. P3 was definitely the most challenging with a thin, awesome flake to the tough crux under the roof. Next time I'll go through the fifth pitch. Next time I'll also wait until it's dried out as muddy feet and slabby moves didn't mix too well. Fun climb, great views, and feels very well protected most of the way.

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 17, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Climbed the route yesterday up to the sixth pitch. Not the most continuous climbing but deserves the four stars for the pure aspect of being a long, multi pitch, trad/mixed route in LCC that can be easily enjoyed, has limited rope drag, and can be climbed in the shade for a decent amount of time throughout the day. We forgot the nuts and small cams in the car, but the route goes easily with a single rack of bd's from .3 to 3. (the 3 is optional). We climbed the variation to pitch five by accident today, the original line trends to the right after the fourth pitch, both of which are excellent. Stuck a flute in my ... Which is the more direct variation heads slightly left off of the fourth belay and follows around 12 bolts up an awesome roof, dihedral, and goes at around 10c. Had a mini epic as we were caught in a thunderstorm atop the climb and had to shelter under a big roof as we watched lightning strike close by. Rapped in the rain.

Awesome climb, awesome exposure, definitely a new age classic.

Note: a 60 m barely works rapping from the top of stuck a flute in my... Tie a knot or rap off the ends while holding the rope and clipping your slings to the anchor.



By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Excellent climb! Pitches 3, 5, and 6 were awesome. I think pitch 5 goes at .10b/c - not extremely hard but requires a lot of concentration. Pitch 6 felt .11a. It's all there, though. Nice line! And congrats to the FA team on an EXCELLENT climb! We rapped at the top of pitch 7. No reason to continue higher. We rapped with a 70m rope. The 5th pitch rap WILL be short if you use a 60m, as was evident from the party in front of us. They were using a 60m and had to downclimb to make it to the anchors at the top of the 4th pitch. They were short by about 15 feet.

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 6, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Climbed again today. Somebody has attached cord and a locking biner to the top of the 5th pitch so that the rappel can now be done with a 60m!

It may be a slight visual nuisance I think it should stay for now as it makes that rap possible for a 60m.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 6, 2012

"I think it should stay for now"

So how long is for now..? Until YOU get a 70m? Why does it need to stay if it's a visual nuisance? Either bring a second rope of buy a 70m. Should people who don't have trad racks add some fixed gear to cracks until they can get some gear?? Kind of the same mentality me thinks...

By user id
Sep 6, 2012

Alex Quitiquit wrote:
Somebody has attached cord and a locking biner to the top of the 5th pitch so that the rappel can now be done with a 60m! It may be a slight visual nuisance I think it should stay for now as it makes that rap possible for a 60m.

Good Lord...Sometimes I wish Alex would just Quit-I-Quit commenting (exclamation point)

Free locking biner for the next party who climbs the route as described.

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Woooaaa! I left you kids alone to play for the winter season and come back to a junk show over here. I didn't put it there, and I had a 70m... Should I mark it zero??

By DoNstamos
From: Dumont, CO
Sep 12, 2013

Did this early summer. The " crux " bolts on p 6 were a little spintastic. Tightened with fingers. I'd recommend bringing the ol torque nut tool and just tightening them a bit. Unless you don't fall.

By Tim Kemple
May 25, 2014

Can't believe I haven't climbed this route before today. Like everyone has said:

Link: P1 & P2 and P3 & P4

Overall: Great fine grained granite climbing (not that scaly stuff you get on the other side) with climbing as hard or as easy as you want (with all of the variation pitches). One of my favorites in the canyon now for sure!

By Ryan Arnold
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great! My 2 cents on the pitch difficulty breakdown:
Pitch 1: 5.7. Pitch 2: 5.8. Pitch 3: 5.10c to onsight, easier once you know the sequence. Pitch 4: 5.7. Pitch 5: 10d/11a hard dihedral that doesn't let up on the slab traverse. Pitch 6: powerful 10d/11a to onsight, probably easier once you know sequence. Pitch 7: 5.8 and very enjoyable!! Climb straight up after the traversing roof.

By B Light
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 20, 2014

Rack Beta:

  • 15 Mountain Draws
  • Rack of Single BD Cams (Green, red and Yellow C3, #.3-#3)
  • Medium Nuts
  • 70 Meter Rope

In the shade after 2 PM