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 ADVANCED
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M / B&D T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Three Strikes T 
Unknown Right Arete T 
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Sticky Zipper 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Kevin Gheen 1985
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 14, 2005

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Description 

This climbs the crack a foot off the arete that is left of Climb and Punishment. In other words, the west facing crack on the right arete of the Life Sentence slab. This line is contrived, as you can make it a lot easier than 5.9+, by using the Climb and Punishment face. If you avoid that face, it might be a 5.9-, but the difficulty comes from trying to avoid that face. No, just kidding. It is funner if you don't use the face.

Protection 

There will be slings around the horn up top. The route protects with a standard rack, nothing larger than a #2 Camalot.


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