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 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life 
Climb and Punishment 
Climbs and Misdemeanors 
Deception 
Jack the Ripper 
Jailbait 
Life Sentence 
Minimum Security 
Possession 
Rehabilitation 
Repeat Offender 
S&M 
Speed is of the Essence 
Sticky Zipper 
Tax Evasion 
Unknown Right Arete 

Sticky Zipper 

5.9+

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
FA: Drew Bedford, Kevin Gheen 1985
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 14, 2005

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Description 

This climbs the crack a foot off the arete that is left of Climb and Punishment. In other words, the west facing crack on the right arete of the Life Sentence slab. This line is contrived, as you can make it a lot easier than 5.9+, by using the Climb and Punishment face. If you avoid that face, it might be a 5.9-, but the difficulty comes from trying to avoid that face. No, just kidding. It is funner if you don't use the face.


Protection 

There will be slings around the horn up top. The route protects with a standard rack, nothing larger than a #2 Camalot.