Sticky Gate with Direct finish
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At the final rooflet on P2 of Sticky Gate Direct.
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P1 (5.5 PG, 100 ft). Begin just left of a right-facing corner. Climb a series of shorter right-facing corners on easy but suspect rock, heading for the right of two obvious hand cracks in the white rock above. Climb the crack (again, watch out for loose rock), then diagonal left up to the GT ledge. This pitch is reasonably pleasant on its own.
There are two trees with slings on the GT ledge. From the right tree, where P1 brings you, a 60m rope will -just-
reach the top of the mound (but watch the ends). The left tree is over Wasp
, and you'll need two 60m ropes to reach the ground.
The Direct finish begins from the GT Ledge at the Sticky Gate tree. From the tree things look challenging, as you'll need to pass several small overhangs. But the climbing is quite reasonable and consistently nice. The route is also pretty clean, although its position high on the cliff down at the end of the Slime Wall does mean you'll find a little lichen.
P2 (5.7): Start directly behind the Sticky Gate tree at a shallow right-facing corner. Go up to the first overhang and trend just a touch to the left as you pass it. Then head up the face, with a few nice moves past another small overhang, and up into a left-facing corner, which is capped by yet a third small overhang. Escape this corner/overhang to the right, and then it's straight up to the rap tree.
Dick Williams describes more climbing up to the very top of the cliff at 5.8 PG but I didn't try it.
Sticky Gate start from the top of the mound right of Wasp
. To get there, walk around the base of the mound to the right, then up a shallow gully to the top of the mound.
P1 has good protection but some suspect rock quality.
There is good pro throughout P2, but it is a little spaced during the crux face climbing past the second rooflet. Bring small cams or micronuts for one crucial placement in the crux section, in a small, thin crack to the right between the first and second rooflet.