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Altered States Gully
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A Bright Shining Lie S 
Air Express T 
Altered States T 
Angel's Ladder T 
Betty's Altered Elbow T 
Betty's In 3D T 
Clutching at Straws T 
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Discrete Feat T 
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Magic Circus T 
March of the Gummi Bears T 
Proscenium T 
Rhino's Chin, The T 
Romance on the Rocks T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Slip Slidin' T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stumpy T 
Thoroughflare T 

Sticky Fingers 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Carruthers & Lynn Wheeler, 1982
Page Views: 1,112
Submitted By: bsmoot on Dec 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The late Steve Carruthers nearing the end of Stick...

Description 

This forgotten route traverses a steep, excellent finger crack to it's end. This pumpy climb used to be quite popular.


Location 

Located up high in the back of the Altered States Gully on the south-facing wall. The climb is a horizontal crack starting just right of a small mahogany tree.


Protection 

Hand & finger sized cams



Photos of Sticky Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
Spencer in the thick of the pump crux.
Spencer in the thick of the pump crux.
What remains of the former belay tree
What remains of the former belay tree
A view from altered states. The obvious slung mahagony marks the center of the route where the thin south facing crack turns to the east facing feetless jug crack. The route ends in the bushes in the upper right.
A view from altered states. The obvious slung maha...
A view from the base. Have your small gear ready to plug
A view from the base. Have your small gear ready t...
Comments on Sticky Fingers Add Comment
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By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

If you hiked all the way up here this is a must - great route.

By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
May 24, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Quality(!). The old stump/tree that was presumably the rap anchor is getting pretty sketchy. There's a blot/pin rap anchor up and over the ridge (downcanyon) from Sticky's belay that will get you back to your sardines with a single 60m rope.

Bring your guns... and a knife to clean up the mahogany tat.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
May 10, 2013

Hope you're enrolled in college cause you're gonna need your campus skills on this one. Whats that you say? A thin finger crack through a small roof, heel hooking a straggling tree, campusing a horizontal .5 camalot crack, clipping ancient pitons in a parallel crack, deftly maneuvering sideways across delicate flakes, to a dirty handcrack finish? Another off the beaten track gem of the wasatch.

A small stump remains of the previous belay tree. Save some gear in the .4 to .75 range or medium nuts for the belay. Arie's description to find the rap anchor is vague but correct. Hike up through loose 5th class, then downcanyon and left past a bunch of trees, then up and right to the top of a smooth slab where at its base are the bolt and pin anchor. Weird spot for sure. Bring a double set of cams from purple tcu to .75 camalot.

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 10, 2013

I found this to be burly for a 10d. Do yourself a favor and go do warm-up laps on Tick Fever before jumping on this. At any rate, it's great fun.

Spencer's redescription of Arie's description for locating the bolt anchor is vague but correct. The rap anchor is an old angle piton and a nice bolt with some tat and a locking biner from the mid 13th century. I'd bring some new webbing and maybe a biner to freshen things up a bit. Who knows how long that webbing has been baking in the sun.

By kalockwood
From: SLC, UT
Jun 21, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

New two-bolt anchor with chains added on 6/21/14 at the nice ledge at the top of the climb. 60m rope will get you quickly back down into the gully, be careful for rockfall when you pull the rope. Hopefully a new anchor will get more people up to this classic.

I agree with Spencer on the pro: blue/gray tcu's protect the thin opening section well, and then .5 and .75 for the business.