Sticky Fingers 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Steve Carruthers & Lynn Wheeler, 1982 |
| Submitted By: | bsmoot on Dec 3, 2008 |
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The late Steve Carruthers nearing the end of Stick...
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Description This forgotten route traverses a steep, excellent finger crack to it's end. This pumpy climb used to be quite popular.
Location Located up high in the back of the Altered States Gully on the south-facing wall. The climb is a horizontal crack starting just right of a small mahogany tree.
Protection Hand & finger sized cams
What remains of the former belay tree
| A view from the base. Have your small gear ready t...
| A view from altered states. The obvious slung maha...
| Spencer in the thick of the pump crux.
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| Comments on Sticky Fingers |
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By Tim Wolfe From: Salt Lake City, UT Apr 16, 2011 rating: 5.10d
| If you hiked all the way up here this is a must - great route. |
By Arie From: Smog Lake City, Utah May 24, 2011 rating: 5.10d
| Quality(!). The old stump/tree that was presumably the rap anchor is getting pretty sketchy. There's a blot/pin rap anchor up and over the ridge (downcanyon) from Sticky's belay that will get you back to your sardines with a single 60m rope. Bring your guns... and a knife to clean up the mahogany tat. |
By Spencer Weiler From: SLC, UT May 10, 2013
| Hope you're enrolled in college cause you're gonna need your campus skills on this one. Whats that you say? A thin finger crack through a small roof, heel hooking a straggling tree, campusing a horizontal .5 camalot crack, clipping ancient pitons in a parallel crack, deftly maneuvering sideways across delicate flakes, to a dirty handcrack finish? Another off the beaten track gem of the wasatch. A small stump remains of the previous belay tree. Save some gear in the .4 to .75 range or medium nuts for the belay. Arie's description to find the rap anchor is vague but correct. Hike up through loose 5th class, then downcanyon and left past a bunch of trees, then up and right to the top of a smooth slab where at its base are the bolt and pin anchor. Weird spot for sure. Bring a double set of cams from purple tcu to .75 camalot. |
By Landon McBrayer From: Salt Lake City, UT May 10, 2013
| I found this to be burly for a 10d. Do yourself a favor and go do warm-up laps on Tick Fever before jumping on this. At any rate, it's great fun. Spencer's redescription of Arie's description for locating the bolt anchor is vague but correct. The rap anchor is an old angle piton and a nice bolt with some tat and a locking biner from the mid 13th century. I'd bring some new webbing and maybe a biner to freshen things up a bit. Who knows how long that webbing has been baking in the sun. |
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