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Sticky Fingers 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Delaney and Howard Peterson
Page Views: 5,020
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 19, 2007
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love this crack! Kind of like it's easier little ...

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Description 

Sticky Fingers is an awesome finger crack makes the first pitch a must do if you climb hard 5.10 cracks. The second pitch is a hard slab and I'm sure its fun for someone. OK, the second pitch is good;it just made me whimper.

I've listed this route as simply 5.10 because I've heard different reports on the grade from different sources. I felt like the crack was around 5.10b/c and the second pitch was hard 5.10d. However from that you may gather that I love finger cracks and don't do as well on hard slab climbs. So basically make sure you are a SOLID 5.10 climber.

Pitch 1: Climb the perfect finger crack as it heads up and right. There are a few thin cruxes along the way till you gain a pod of sorts where you can rest and then continue to a ledge on the right edge of the buttress. Fixed belay but you might want to back it up.

Pitch 2: Climb out left and clip a bolt. Then make challenging slabby moves left to a good stance (crux #1). Easier mantels get you to another bolt (I don't like the placement of this bolt because it could cause a bad swing for your second). After clipping the second bolt make a few though moves up and right to gain the third bolt (thank god). From here friction straight up making a really hard move to OK holds (crux #2) and better holds as you drag yourself on to the ledge.

One 60m rope stretcher rappel will get you back to the ground.


Location 

Just right of Slow and Easy 5.8, it is the right angling thin crack.


Protection 

Pitch 1: This pitch eats up nuts and small cams. Don't bother with hand sized stuff.

Pitch 2: All you need is 3 draws.



Photos of Sticky Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
what a great pitch... nice job brian...
what a great pitch... nice job brian...
Brian reaching for the next lock, praying that its a good one...
Brian reaching for the next lock, praying that its...
pitch 2 is insecure at best...
pitch 2 is insecure at best...
Nick styling through the middle of the business
Nick styling through the middle of the business
Comments on Sticky Fingers Add Comment
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By Casey Bald
Oct 12, 2007

from the top of the second pitch you can keep going up via Raven Crack at stiff 5.9, its the obvious corner system with a fixed nut at about halfway.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 5, 2010

I didn't find a fixed anchor at the top of the finger crack, as this description suggests. Instead of taking a left and climbing the hard slab, I headed up past the blocks into a chimney/groove feature. This took me straight to the bolt anchors on top of the second pitch. A #3 Camalot would work well to protect the move getting into the groove.

I liked this variation because it avoided the slab and took me to the bolted belay in one pitch.

By Andrew Mertens
From: Hanover, NH
Aug 20, 2010

There's a fixed anchor at the top of the first pitch as of today, but it's a old piton and a fixed nut with two non-lockers, so it's probably a good idea to climb to the second pitch anchors by way of the easy corner even if you just want to climb the first pitch.