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Green Valley Gap
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Quickening, The S 
Rock!! n' Roll T 
Sand Stoner Reverse S 
Short and Dorky S 
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Stick to your Guns S 
Tape Up 
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Where Egos Dare S 

Stick to your Guns 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Season: Fall, Winter
Page Views: 1,928
Submitted By: Chuck on Aug 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Jeremy Steck on Stick to Your Guns.

Description 

This route starts under a 15' long roof. Use the crack around the left corner for your hands. At the third bolt drop down under the roof. The holds here have been cemented to keep them from breaking off. The crux is from here to the next bolt. follow the arete up to a 2 chain anchor.

Location 

About 100 yard from west end of gap on south facing wall. This route in immediately right of Hair Today Gone Tomorrow. It is the most obvious roof with three bolts under the roof.

Protection 

Five draws plus anchor
Fixed Bolts. 2 Chain anchor


Photos of Stick to your Guns Slideshow Add Photo
View from the start looking out the climb.
View from the start looking out the climb.
The crux
The crux
Passing the crux
Passing the crux
Robear on the first moves
Robear on the first moves

Comments on Stick to your Guns Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Dec 11, 2007

This is not a project...The roof is very easy, and contrived....the crux is turning the lip.
By ZachBradford
Mar 18, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The route is named "Stick to your Guns"

FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Goss Guide Book gives it a 12c.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route is very fun, regardless of the grade or glued holds. It might be a good idea to anchor the belayer to prevent a possible ground fall if the climber was to fall when turning the lip or fumbling the clip above the lip.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Mar 7, 2011

12a seems about right for this climb. I felt is was easier then sandstoner reverse though, so could be 11d. 12c is very generous. Super fun climb.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Mar 30, 2011

Any beta on how to turn the lip? what are the holds like above the lip? Where should you clip from once you come around it?
By ZachBradford
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Beta at lip is the crux toss to a deep 2-3 finger pocket. Then proceed up the face on the best holds you can find. They are better to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly.