This route has taken on a somewhat infamous reputation over the last few years as modern climbers discuss the challenges of leading past the first bolt. Once you clip the first bolt, difficult climbing ensues, followed by a bit of runout before you get the next. Be sure you're solid on this rock before attempting this line. Then step surely and carefully. The fall ain't pretty. Rap off using the nearby anchor for Forbidden Paradise.
4 bolts (all 3/8"), pro to 2.5" for an anchor. The anti-sport route.
I second the poster about where the route goes. Do *not* clip the 2nd bolt located to the left of the first bolt a little up and left, and do not stray too far right from the 1st bolt. Route follows line about three feet to right of bolt. It scared me quite a bit, but it's all there. Definitely an R with the atrocious landing.
By C Miller Administrator Dec 13, 2003 rating: 5.95c17VIHVS 5a R
A good heads-up slab route that will hold your attention. The runout to the second bolt is not especially difficult, but a fall will probably result in a crash into the boulders below. The second runout after the last bolt is easier with less to worry about. Best avoided on a warm day. Two stars out of five.
2nd route I led at Jtree. Scared the shitte out of me. I just kept looking at the chunderous boulders below. Damn happy every time I got to the next bolt! Sketch unless you are used to J-tree slab.
By Locker From: Yucca Valley, CA Jan 5, 2005 rating: 5.9-5c17VIHVS 4c
I have led this a few times in the past and again today and cannot understand how anyone sees it going harder than 5.9-.........in no way is it anywhere in the 5.10's........might be a style more suited to me? Couldn't honestly tell you on that one........but it is deffinatly fun and as noted, be careful not to fall between the first and second bolt.............might end up way beyond "OUCH!".........
The runout after the first bolt played with my head and I bailed. I have a little boy waiting for his dad to come home after a J-Tree visit and this route was not worth playing with that! I lead "Forbidden Paradise" to the right instead and TRed this route from their shared anchor. As far as quality goes, this route has NOTHING on "Forbidden Paradise". Can you tell I'm bitter about bailing??
Great face/slab climbing but definitely a long run out to the second bolt that you don't want to blow. Hard to rate this accurately but 5.9+ to 10a seems right. Thin and delicate for sure. The climbing eases up but is still great all the way to the top!
As an old school boy to JTree, leading this 18 years ago was a proper introduction as to what was expected of a slab climber at the Tree. Yea, it was a bit runout, but that was the sacrifice for the 5.9 grade. If you want it, its there, but this aint no sport climb!
Almost every time I climb at echo I chase unsuspecting leaders away from this route. They arrive at Echo, fresh from climbing 5.8s, maybe some 5.9s in the gym or elsewhere and are at Echo because the routes are "sport" climbs (they're bolted, right? So they must be sport climbs...) and they don't require any trad gear (they don't have racks yet). They first check out Double Dip and Stichter Quits, but find lines three parties long waiting for them, so they head for the next easiest route in the guide that's nearby - Stick to What. That's where I find them - standing at the base of the route a little confused as to which bolts go with which route. They usually assume the bolt on Legolas is part of the route as they can't comprehend why anyone would climb something with the bolts so far apart that you'd end up a blob of brokenness in the talus if you fell before reaching the second bolt on the route.
Anyway, my round-about point is that I hope to see an "R" in the next issue of the guidebook, and possibly a note of warning or something to help keep unsuspecting newer leaders off of this route. It's a stout, heady line that is best left to those who are solid at the grade and used to JTree slab.
It's been a while since I've done this route, but it used to be a favorite of mine -- one I'd make sure to do on most trips.
My recollection is the crux is pretty much right at the first bolt. If you can make that move, the moves to the second bolt just keep getting easier and more secure. It is a bit of a head-game, but it never struck me as dangerous, per se. Yes, falling just below the second bolt would be very bad, but it isn't very likely, especially if you made it to the first bolt in the first place...
That said, I've had friends clip the first bolt, make the crux move, look at the next moves, and give up, so it isn't for everyone...
By Gregg Olson From: ca Oct 4, 2008 rating: 5.95c17VIHVS 5a
Maybe not the best route for a timid 5.9 gym rat, but having done many R rated climbs I dont think this one quite makes that grade. I think with a good belay this is fairly safe route and a great lesson in " keep your cool " face climbing. I would hate to give this one an R rating and have someone think " that wasnt so bad " and jump on a real R rated route that could do some damage.
When I was at Echo Rock this week there was significant confusion about where this route goes. At the base of the wall where Legolas, Stick to What, and Forbidden Paradise are there is kind of a mess of bolts. Specifically, there seems to be a clear Forbidden Paradise bolt line, but three "first bolts" to the left of that at about the same height. The middle one has a significant rust streak underneath it. I climbed up to a better-looking bolt at the same level and right of the rusty one, and then continued up and left about 10 feet to another bolt roughly above the rusty one, then angled back right into the water streak that forms the upper part of Stick to What. This didn't seem super dangerous so I assume from the above I must have done the wrong line for Stick to What. Where does each route go?
By Joe Hunt From: Long Beach, CA Sep 7, 2011 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+E1 5a R