"Stick to the Mission"  5.11 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Josh Gross and Sam Lightner New Route:  Yes Season:  faces south west Submitted By:  Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 7, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Just after the face moves in the splitter.

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Description 

"Stick to the Mission", a Toddism that kept so many of us focused on what mattered (climbing), follows the obvious dihedral to splitter on the southwest face.
P1 is a soft hand crack in a corner. A bit awkward but fun. Belay at the fixed anchors on the ledge.
P2 is the business. Do some face moves with a bolt protecting you (5.11) to the splitter. The crack starts as a good hands, then goes to cupped hands, then fists, and then at the dogleg it turns to 5 inches of OW that holds steady for 80 feet. The crux is getting out of the bombay chimney/pod and back into the offwidth. (You might want a #2 bigbro for this. The #5 friend fits perfect, but if you leave it there it will get pulled deep into the crack.) I fell on this move, but got it. Josh fired it. Its a lot easier if you can take off your helmet and don't have a huge rack of superfluous pieces (like 5 of each under 2.5... which got no use on this climb!) Continue on 5.10 ow for another 50 feet or so to the large ledge. An anchor here can take hand size pieces and a couple of 1.5's if you have them.
P3 follow the obvious 5.8 chimney and face holds to the summit. There are two summits... the north one being higher but the south one having the rappel.
Rap the route in two legs

Location 

The Mission is at the very top of Day Canyon. "Stick to the Mission" is on the southwest face.

Protection 

Hands to #6 friends. I'd recommend triple 2.5-4 friends, then 4 or 5 #5 friends and a #2 bigbro. A #6 is not neccessary if you have that and is really slightly too big. A few slings, and one quickdraw for the bolt. A 1.5 is handy at the second ledge.
You need two sixties to get down.

Photos of "Stick to the Mission" Slideshow

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The second belay ledge from the summit.	Josh on the south summit	Rappelling off the south summit of The Mission.
BETA PHOTO: The route "Stick to the Mission!"