|(05) The Transition Zone
This route is 15 feet to the right of Wavy Gravy, and the first route on the wall. The start is bulging and climbs a narrow grey slab to the left of the bolts, and you eventually find yourself right of the bolts. Pass between two small bushes higher up. Smearing and friction. Nice Route!
5 bolts to anchors.
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 27, 2009
good climb though you never reall climb the bolt line. Start out left of the bolts then move to the right. Follow the crack to the right then step left again to a flake at the anchor.
|By Paul Davidson|
Apr 28, 2009
This is a fun route with some good variations.
1. The short hand crack right of the start makes for nice jams(~9). Join Stucco above the 3rd bolt.
2. At second bolt, move right of the bolt, up the small nose and then onto the ledge up and right of the third bolt. Not sure I'd recommend this over the direct version but it is a harder lead with some good slab climbing.
Us old farts also like to take a 1/2 - 3/4 sized TCU and plug it up in the crack between 4th and 5th bolts.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 27, 2009
A very good route. For someone like me (not comfortable on these low angle routes) it is an excellent mental exercise.