Frankenpine 5.6 from below.
Great cliff with a short hike in, this is the place to go to jump on a few routes after work if time is tight. Rock quality is good where the routes are, but on either side the cliff fades out into choss.
From the intersection of NY 149 and Ridge Road take Ridge north until you hit the lake and bear right on pilot knob road. Take Pilot knob until you hit the trail head/parking lot w/ a sign on the right. From the trail head hike in about 1 min to a right turn that will take you to the base of a long hill. Turn left up the hill and follow the trail to a carin where you will see the trail up to along with the actual cliff.(5 mins)
Browse More Classics in Stewarts Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stewarts Ledge:
5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
5.11b R Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Stewarts Ledge
|Comments on Stewarts Ledge
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: West Sand Lake, New York
May 15, 2012
The trailhead you want is for Buck Mountain, it's actually the second trailhead you come to on the road. Some make the mistake of taking the Pilot Knob trailhead which will obviously not get you here.
Third/fourth class ramp on the left side of the main face leads to the top versus walking all the way around on the trail climber's right.
|By Carl H.|
Jul 8, 2012
This West-facing cliff is well protected by trees, so climbing will mostly be in the shade. However, due to the trees, it also takes a while for the rock to dry out after rain or damp, humid conditions.
|By Ben Brotelho|
From: Albany, NY
Aug 18, 2012
Just checked this out for the first time today...and I thought all of the bolt-anchors were a little awkward to get to for setting up top-ropes. The 3rd class depression just left of Barking Spider was easy enough to cruise up, but to get to the anchor for that route, or Crackatoa's anchor required a little sqirrely scrambling at the top of the cliff that was not very fun. Same thing with the Entertainer's bolted anchor.
According to the Lawyer/Haas book "access to the top of both cliffs is straightforward for toproping." Was I missing something?
Also, I thought Crackatoa was pretty sweet!
Aug 19, 2012
Hi Ben. Great to hear that you enjoyed the routes at Stewart's Ledge.
In the appendix of our book, Jim and I say that toprope areas have easy access to the top and you should plan on using long cord or protection to build anchors. You found the easy access. Some folks build their own anchors, from trees, using static rope. If you don't have a static rope, then the best way to get to the anchors is to set a temporary rap anchor on a tree and rappel down to the fixed anchors at the top of a route. Many of the Lake George cliffs are set up in a similar fashion, i.e. The Brain, Newbuck and Potash.