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Stewarts Ledge

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barking Spider T,TR 
Crackatoa T,TR 
Dog Pounder S 
Entertainer, The S,TR 
Frankenpine T 
Lithium S 
Nevermore T,TR 
Revolver T,S 
Valium S,TR 

Stewarts Ledge  


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Page Views: 3,362
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jaysen Henderson on Jul 21, 2011
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Chance of Rain
55° | 38°
Clear
60° | 44°
Partly Cloudy
52° | 39°
Clear
57° | 43°
Partly Cloudy
65° | 51°
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Description 

Great cliff with a short hike in, this is the place to go to jump on a few routes after work if time is tight. Rock quality is good where the routes are, but on either side the cliff fades out into choss.

Getting There 

From the intersection of NY 149 and Ridge Road take Ridge north until you hit the lake and bear right on pilot knob road. Take Pilot knob until you hit the trail head/parking lot w/ a sign on the right. From the trail head hike in about 1 min to a right turn that will take you to the base of a long hill. Turn left up the hill and follow the trail to a carin where you will see the trail up to along with the actual cliff.(5 mins)

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.0 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stewarts Ledge:
Barking Spider   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Entertainer   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Lithium   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Dog Pounder   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Stewarts Ledge

Featured Route For Stewarts Ledge
Valerie Bachinsky following on Barking Spider.

Barking Spider 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Stewarts Ledge
Take the left of two cracks to the top. Bolted anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Comments on Stewarts Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2012
The trailhead you want is for Buck Mountain, it's actually the second trailhead you come to on the road. Some make the mistake of taking the Pilot Knob trailhead which will obviously not get you here.

Third/fourth class ramp on the left side of the main face leads to the top versus walking all the way around on the trail climber's right.
By Carl H.
Jul 8, 2012
This West-facing cliff is well protected by trees, so climbing will mostly be in the shade. However, due to the trees, it also takes a while for the rock to dry out after rain or damp, humid conditions.
By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Aug 18, 2012
Just checked this out for the first time today...and I thought all of the bolt-anchors were a little awkward to get to for setting up top-ropes. The 3rd class depression just left of Barking Spider was easy enough to cruise up, but to get to the anchor for that route, or Crackatoa's anchor required a little sqirrely scrambling at the top of the cliff that was not very fun. Same thing with the Entertainer's bolted anchor.

According to the Lawyer/Haas book "access to the top of both cliffs is straightforward for toproping." Was I missing something?

Also, I thought Crackatoa was pretty sweet!
By JHaas
Aug 19, 2012
Hi Ben. Great to hear that you enjoyed the routes at Stewart's Ledge.
In the appendix of our book, Jim and I say that toprope areas have easy access to the top and you should plan on using long cord or protection to build anchors. You found the easy access. Some folks build their own anchors, from trees, using static rope. If you don't have a static rope, then the best way to get to the anchors is to set a temporary rap anchor on a tree and rappel down to the fixed anchors at the top of a route. Many of the Lake George cliffs are set up in a similar fashion, i.e. The Brain, Newbuck and Potash.